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For some time now, Madrid has been witness to and passionate participant in something more than a fad: the twirling, graceful and joyous dance that bears the name of the city it hails from, Seville.

Sevillanas bars, often called salas rocieras, referring to the type of sevillana danced in the village of El Rocio, have sprung up all over Madrid in the last few years. They range from basic establishments, with little more than a bar and a sawdust dance area, to restaurants-cum-nightclubs where fashionable Madrilenos go to see and be seen.The best dancing is often to be found at the former, though the latter may have the advantage of live music.

Sevillanas can be danced by anyone, male, female, young or old. Indeed, often the most elderly, least shapely performers are best.

At least two people, facing one another, are required, though a sevillana is often performed in long rows (usually of women). Sevillanas bars don't normally get going till after midnight and stay open late.

Among currently popular sevillanas spots are: El Porton, 25 Calle Lopez de Hoyos (262 4956); Al Andalus, 19 Calle Capitan Haya (556 1439); La Caseta, 13 Calle General Castanos (419 0343), and La Maestranza, 16 Calle Maurice Legendre (315 9050 and 733 9793).

Admission is included in the price of the first drink, which averages $20 to $25. Many sevillanas bars, however, do not charge admission.