The empty windows of the Chautauqua Institute stare out at Lake Chautauqua, as the wind rustles the plastic storm sheets. The musicians and artists who collect in hordes each summer have packed up their things and gone home.
For Chautauqua residents, there is quiet. For the few hardy and adventurous tourists, there still is plenty to do without the crowds.Chautauqua County may be the perfect weekend getaway.
Chautauqua is known for its arts community and picturesque lake. Although the prime time for tourists is summer, many of the area's inns remain open all year, and the view of Lake Chautauqua and the community's century-old houses is a sight to see.
If you decide to stay in a quaint country inn, you might try the William Seward Inn on North Portage Street in Westfield, N.Y., seven miles away. Once the mansion of the candidate who lost the Republican Party nomination to Abraham Lincoln, the Seward Inn overlooks the azure waters of Lake Erie.
Furnished in early 19th-century antiques, the inn's 10 rooms have tall four-poster beds, and soft lights are cozy and endearing. Reservations are recommended; rates range from $58 to $84 for double occupancy.
The innkeeper and his wife make a great sausage and onion quiche for breakfast. They serve Welch's Grape Juice - Welch's vineyards and company are in Westfield.
If you love antiques, this is paradise. Surrounding Westfield are at least 15 antique shops that specialize in everything from old Coca-Cola cans to refinished oak desks that are at least a century old. And as prices go, these are not exceptionally steep.
If you want a restful weekend, but know you have to do a little shopping, there are plenty of local shops. Try the Wool Works, an out-of-the-way shop not far from the Seward Inn. You can buy a sweater or two and then go into the barn and b-a-a-h at the sheep.
The Adams Art Gallery, just up the road in Dunkirk, specializes in textured art and is showing an exhibit of multimedia called "Access 1989" featuring artists from New York, Pennsylvania and Ohio.
If neither prospect thrills you, take a drive through the village of Mayville, where you might stop for a meal at The Bench. Just across from the Chautauqua County Courthouse on South Erie Street, The Bench serves a New York strip steak with a side of fettucine alfredo for less than $15. The ambiance isn't posh, but the French onion soup will warm you on a chilly day.
More formal dining can be found in Fredonia at the White Inn. In the spirit of the grand old plantation home, the White Inn, which is listed in the "Mobile Guide to Travel," sits on the main street. It's classier than The Bench and more expensive.
There are plenty of historic sites. Driving through the area is like taking a ride back in time. Huge well-preserved houses sit back from the road on almost any street.
And it wouldn't be a trip to Chautauqua without visiting the vineyards that the area is fast becoming known for. Although most don't give tours in the fall, the sprawling acres covered with vines are fun to see. There are afternoon tastings at five of the seven vineyards.
On the border of New York and Pennsylvania, Chautauqua boasts some of the best grape-growing country in America, second in production only to California. White wines made from the region's grapes have been recognized internationally.
After a hearty meal, it is time to head home. And there's always cross-country ski season at Chautauqua. As Seward innkeeper Pete Wood will tell you, it's even prettier then.
-Debran Rowland is a reporter for The Pittsburgh Press.)