I heard about TGI Friday's from several sources - among them publications mentioning the international company's success, local friends who enjoyed the lively and upbeat atmosphere of the outlet near the Cottonwood Mall (which opened about 8 months ago), and a hefty PR packet from TGI Friday's management touting the company's 25th birthday.
In the fiercely competitive restaurant industry, TGI Friday's is a formidable force, especially considering the impact of national chains, predicted to dominate the market in the foreseeable future.The menu at TGI Friday's is also formidable, looking more like an encyclopedia's yearbook than an eatery's bill of fare. The slickly presented format of the spiral bound eight pages offers diners a capsulated description of each dish, which reflects the trends of the past two decades. The first page of appetizer selections includes Sicilian stuffed mushrooms, baked brie, quesadillas, Thai chicken, fried clams and pot stickers, along with peel and eat shrimp and fried onion rings.
Incorporating trends from American malt shop fare to the Pacific Rim, TGI Friday's tries to do it all. I could only wonder if the kitchen is up to the task.
Throughout our meal, both the kitchen and service seemed a bit overwhelmed during our weeknight visit. On several occasions, the wrong dishes were brought to our table (some of the specialty salads looked better than some of our choices). Our desserts came 25 minutes after we had finished our entrees. A requested substitution of fries rather than baked potato was missed; and a dinner salad came after the entree was half done. Our hardworking waitress diplomatically deducted the cost of the desserts from our bill, sensing our frustration throughout the evening.
Of the two appetizers we sampled, the fried mozzarella ($4.35), served with Italian meat sauce, was the clear favorite. The half dozen breaded sticks were crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside. Unfortunately, the broccoli cheese melt ($4.55) while of the same consistency suffered from a choice of cheese. The florets were swimming in a salty processedlike cheese sauce that was overly salty.
The pizza ($4.95 for the basic model) came as something called "pizza bits," presliced with a handful of french fries tossed in the middle. We later found out that this is a choice from the children's menu, which we were not given by our hostess, despite our having two in tow. And we ordered the pizza, not a kiddie version.
Several pages of the menu describe soup and salad combinations, along with entree-size salads including cobb, marinated and broiled chicken breast, Cajun fried chicken and a chargrilled red potato salad - the latter sounding the most interesting. It included fresh spinach, green and red peppers, artichokes, grated cheese, served with a lemon mint dressing. Prices ranged from around $3 to $6.
Sandwiches and hamburgers spread across a couple of other pages, with selections like fajita steak baguette, chargrilled vegetable pita, French dip and smoked turkey Reuben; these are priced from $4 to $6.
Of the specialties we tried, the fajitas ($7.95) (we chose chicken) were ample in size, served hot, and had a nicely seasoned marinade. The baby back ribs ($9.95), which our waitress especially suggested, were large in size but short on flavor. They were dry and the sauce, supposedly an apple butter sauce, tasted more like the routine bottled variety. The filet mignon ($12.95) was very tender and also good sized; we did not have the choice explained on the menu between herb butter or mushrooms in wine sauce, however. Nonetheless, the herb butter added to the dish.
Other entrees from the extensive selection include beef or chicken chimichangas, oriental style almond chicken, chicken fried steak, fettucini Alfredo, Santa Fe pasta, London broil, blackened halibut, herb grilled chicken, chicken parmesan and broiled scallops. Side orders, in addition to the soup or salad and roll that accompany the dinners, include coleslaw, rice pilaf, black beans and brown rice and steamed vegetables.
The hot deep dish apple pie ($2.95) and the special "Pie-in-the-Sky" sundae ($3.25) were on the sweet side but appealing in size and presentation. The sundae's cookie wedge (white chocolate chunk Macadamia nut, double chocolate chip, and old fashioned chip with nuts) was, unfortunately dry and brittle. Malt cake, mocha mud pie, bread pudding, cheesecake and other sundaes round out the dessert menu.
We noticed that many of the diners at nearby and somewhat closely aligned tables, ordered one of each - appetizer, entree and dessert - sharing the large servings. This would certainly lessen the caloric intake as well as the final tally.
TGI Friday's describes itself as the "American Bistro," the French word for bar, tavern or nightclub. Yet since it first opened 25 years ago to cater to the singles' crowd on New York's upper East side, it has altered its emphasis and menu, attempting to cater to changing tastes and trends.
As a restaurant, it struck me as an ambitious, upscale culinary carnival, offering a bit of everything to a dining public who seems to enjoy the lights and sounds of a setting as much as the food on the table. Even a tuxedo-clad balloon stylist added to this feeling, increasing the din of dinner with his silly jokes and tableside patter. What I missed was a consistent and focused dining experience.
Rating: ** 1/2
TGI Friday's, 4805 Highland Drive (at Cottonwood Mall), 272-6677. Open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. until midnight; Friday and Saturday, from 11 a.m. until 1 a.m.; Sunday, from 9 a.m. until midnight. Reservations accepted Sunday through Thursday; expect a wait on Friday and Saturday evenings. Check with guarantee card and major credit cards accepted.