Hong Kong, virtually on the eve of losing its status as a British crown colony, will become a part of China again in 1997. The Chinese have promised not to tamper with their new possession for 50 years after that, but trust in that promise has been severely shaken by the bloody suppression of the democratic movement on the mainland last spring.
In the meantime, Hong Kong remains a tourist's delight. The colony consists of Hong Kong Island, a host of smaller, satellite islands, Kowloon Peninsula on the mainland, and the New Territories, which extend all the way up to the border with China.One of the more pleasant surprises awaiting a first-time visitor to Hong Kong is the ease with which one can get from place to place. The subways are swift, virtually noiseless, clean and free of graffiti. Instructions (in both English and Chinese) are conspicuous and easy to read. Uniformed agents stand outside turnstiles to answer questions.
Buses and trolleys - big, lumbering, multicolor double-deckers - also can take you anywhere. And don't overlook the Star Ferry - a small fleet that runs between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. First class is only 9 cents.
But the best way to get from here to there is by cab. Taxis are clean, comfortable and air-conditioned. The drivers are polite, friendly and informative. Best of all, cabs are cheap, a third what you pay in the larger stateside cities. Tipping is not expected but it is customary to leave some portion of your change.
Equally pleasant will be the shopping bargains you'll encounter, such as jade in many colors, ivory both old and new, batik and beautifully delicate cloissone.
Cameras or electronics are not a good buy in the Far East; never mind that they are made there.
There is a multiplicity of places to shop. Check out Ocean Terminal, the Chinese Arts and Crafts Center, the Yue Hwa Department Store and Stanley Market on the far side of Hong Kong Island.
Look for the decal in the shop window that identifies the merchant as a member of the Hong Kong Merchants Association, a pledge of value for money. And don't overlook the night markets - garishly lit outdoor areas that open when the commercial establishments close.
When you tear yourself from your shopping spree, you will want to eat. You'll find chicken, duck, pork and denizens of the deep in varieties you may never have heard of. Service and preparation are impeccable.
Your hotel will help you find good restaurants and will make reservations for you. Some good examples: the Man Wah Restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, the Korean Barbecue House, the Royal Thai and, near the Chinese border in the New Territories, the Yucca de Lac.
Like most major cities, Hong Kong is full of things to see and do, but if you are pressed for time there is one absolute must: Victoria Peak, the highest point on Hong Kong Island and is the vantage point for one of the most dazzling views in the world. It is reachable by bus or taxi, but the most enjoyable way to get there is "the tram to the peak."
The view is spectacular at night, when the jeweled city and harbor are spread out at your feet. But it is equally spellbinding in the day, when a clear blue sky forms a canopy over the noonday splendor of the city.