The pot bubbled over with information, but it seemed like a shiny copper kettle, not a durable cast-iron vessel. How could a discussion of Rocky Mountain cooking overlook the meat and potatoes of high-altitude menus - the Dutch oven?
A presentation at the recent National Beef Cookoff in Colorado Springs bandied about idea after idea, struggling to define a regional cuisine from the diverse geographic, ethnic and climatic influences that affect mountain cooking, but it ignored the Dutch oven.Was mountain cooking a hearty cuisine slimmed to only "healthy" food choices?
A wonder of ethnic influences undefined by state boundary?
A mountain menu inspired by European cuisines?
A cattle trail stampede to 24-ounce portions of beef?
An outdoorsy focus on meals to match the mountain-inspired recreational activities?
In a sense, the collection of diverse ideas explained the territorial trends of the mountainlands, but the real foods of the Rockies belong to the intrepid explorers and settlers who survived harsh winters and arid summers.
Those who conquered the challenging terrain while transforming it into a supportive friend.
Take Lewis and Clark, for example.
According to journals studied by Connie Chesnel, author of "Rocky Mountain Cooking," the explorers lived off the land for two years, almost entirely on the results of their hunting expeditions, but carried a prized Dutch oven to prepare the bounty.
"Game was plentiful," says Chesnel, "with elk, deer, buffalo, antelope, bear and fowl usually available for the shooting. It was a diet that provided energy and sustenance, whatever it lacked in refinements."
Other early explorers lived with Indian tribes and broadened their diets through the innovative efforts of Indian women who found wild roots, tubers, berries and greens.
Eventually cattlemen and sheepherders settled the Western regions, packing a bevy of new ingredients, but more importantly, everyday use of the iron pot.
Cowboys stored the pot in the "boot" of the chuckwagon, but more often a collection of ovens crowded around the campfire. Legend says a favorite cowhand meal was "Son-of-a-Gun Stew," a concoction of little-used cow parts, simmered throughout the day. Sheepherders as well brewed a pot of stew and served up sourdough biscuits as a complement.
The heritage of the iron pot is well-known to present-day mountain cooks.
That is not to say that every Rocky Mountain kitchen fires a daily Dutch oven dinner, but that pot is the symbol of the perseverance of the settlers' influence that pervades our homegrown cooking styles.
- Many a mountain cook, borrowing on the skills of the sheep camp, nurtures a sourdough start for breads and pancakes.
- Others choose a different approach to homemade bread - adding freshly ground whole wheat flour to the loaf.
- The chili pepper revolution varies in degrees of acceptable heat but finds a comfortable residence in a variety of regional recipes. Though we've mountainized the peppery zest as it moves north, lively tortilla-based combinations satisfy many family meals.
- American Indian influences exist with the use of corn, squash and beans but are anchored by the harvest of wild game.
- Other ethnic influences in food preparation were felt with the waves of immigrants who settled the pioneer villages, the railroad towns or the mining camps of the mountains.
A multitude of diverse factions exerted influence on a geographically diverse region. No wonder the experts struggled with a concise definition of Rocky Mountain cuisine.
A simple definition of high-altitude meals: a menu to match the mountain terrain whether it is sheer, rocky peaks, pine-covered slopes or stark plateaus.
*****
RECIPES
Chasen's Chili
1/2 pound pinto beans
5 cups canned tomatoes
1 pound green peppers, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 pounds onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup parsley, chopped
1 pound lean ground pork
2 1/2 pounds coarsely ground beef chuck
2 tablespoons chili powder
1 tablespoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin\ Wash the pinto beans and soak overnight. Simmer in the soaking water until tender. Add tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes. Saute the peppers in oil for 5 minutes. Add onions and cook until tender, stirring often. Add garlic and parsley. Saute pork and beef in butter for 15 minutes. Add meat to onion, tomato and pepper mixture, stir in the chili powder and cook for 10 minutes. Add the beans and spices and simmer covered for 1 hour. Uncover the pot and simmer for another 30 minutes. Skim before servings. Makes 8 servings.
- From "Colorado Cache"
Barbecued Buffalo Roast
Sage Marinade:
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup dry red wine or beef stock
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
1/2 small onion, chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt
Pinch of black pepper
1 buffalo roast, 6-8 pounds
Barbecue Sauce:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 medium onion, chopped
1 cup beef stock
1 cup chili sauce or ketchup
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons balsamic or cider vinegar
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon dry mustard
Pinch of ground cloves
Pinch of cayenne pepper Combine marinade ingredients in a small bowl and whisk with a fork. Put the roast in a large, deep bowl, pour the marinade over, and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate 3-4 hours.
To make the sauce, heat the oil; add onion and saute at low heat for 10 minutes or until soft. Remove from the heat and add the beer or stock. Add the chili sauce, Worcestershire sauces and vinegar, mixing with a fork or whisk until well blended. Simmer, uncovered for 10 minutes. Add the seasonings, using more cayenne or brown sugar if desired. Drain the roast, discarding the marinade, and bring to room temperature. Meanwhile, prepare a charcoal or hardwood fire. Let the coals burn somewhat less time than you would if cooking beef or until the coals are only partly covered with white ash. Buffalo cooks best at a lower temperature.
Slather roast with barbecue sauce and skewer it. Place about 12 inches above the first. Cook for about 12 minutes per pound for rare, basting with the sauce every 5 minutes. Test for doneness with the point of a knife. The meat should remain quite pink in the center. If cooked past this point, the meat will toughen. Put the roast on a carving board, let rest for 20 minutes, then cut on the diagonal in 1/2-inch thick slices. Garnish with remaining warm barbecue sauce. Makes 12-15 servings.
- From "Rocky Mountain Cooking." Buffalo is available at Hunsaker Meats, 5303 W. 3500 South, West Valley City, 969-3304.
Corn Pudding
2 large ears fresh corn or 2 1/2 cups frozen corn, thawed and drained
1 medium leek, chopped
3 tablespoons butter
4 eggs
3 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon sugar
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons red bell pepper, finely chopped
1 cup light cream Cut corn from cob or use frozen corn to equal 2 1/2 cups. Saute leek in 2 tablespoons of butter for 15 minutes. Beat eggs; add corn and leek; blend well. Combine the flour, sugar, salt and pepper to taste; add to the egg mixture. Add the pepper and slowly stir in the cream. Pour the mixture into a greased 2-quart casserole, sprinkle with remaining tablespoons butter. Bake at 325 degrees for 1 1/4 hours or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Serves 6.
- From "Rocky Mountain Cooking"
Alpine Mushroom Salad
2 cups chanterelle mushrooms, cut in large dice
1 cup Porcini mushrooms, chopped
1 teaspoon garlic, chopped
1 cup tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
2 tablespoons fresh basil
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon Balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes
1/2 cup Italian parsley
White Truffle Aioli:
3 tablespoons white truffle oil or sauteed and chilled domestic mushrooms
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 egg yolks
1 cup olive oil
Salt
White pepper Place mushrooms, garlic and olive oil on sheet pan; toss and season. Bake at 400 degrees until light brown. Toss with remaining ingredients.
For Aioli, combine egg yolks and lemon juice in food processor. Slowly add truffle oil or mushrooms and olive oil to form an emulsion; chill. Toss with mushrooms, reserving a portion to garnish meat if desired. Serve as a complement to beef tenderloin or other beef entrees.
- From Richard Chamberlain, Little Nell Hotel, Aspen, Colo.
Colorado Peach Souffle
1 pound peaches, peeled, pitted and cut into chunks or 1 pound frozen peaches, thawed and juice reserved
1 cup sugar, divided
1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin
Pinch of salt
4 egg yolks
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated lemon peel
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
4 large egg whites
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
Sliced peaches
Toasted almonds
Sprigs of fresh mint Mash peaches. Stir in 1/4 cup sugar and let stand 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
In top of double boiler, combine gelatin, 1/4 cup sugar and salt. Drain syrup from peaches and add enough water to make 1/2 cup liquid. Blend egg yolks with peach liquid and add gelatin mixture. Cook over simmering water 6 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Add lemon peel and juice. Place top of double boiler over ice. Stir until mixture is thicker than egg whites. Fold in peaches. Beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Slowly add 1/2 cup sugar while beating until stiff peaks form. Fold into peach mixture. Whip cream with almond extract and fold into peach mixture. Pour into 2-quart souffle dish. Refrigerate overnight. Garnish with sliced peaches, toasted almonds and sprigs of mint, if desired.
- From "Creme de Colorado"
Gorp
1 cup quick-cooking rolled oats
1 cup shelled peanuts
1/4 cup wheat germ
1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup pecans or walnuts
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup M&Ms
1/2 cup chopped mixed dried fruit
1/2 cup raisins Combine oats, peanuts, nuts and wheat germ. Blend honey and oil; stir into oat mixture. Spread out on a 9-by-9-inch baking pan. Bake at 300 degrees for 30-40 minutes or until light brown, stirring every 15 minutes. Remove from oven and transfer to another lightly greased pan to cool. Break up in large pieces. Stir in candy, dried fruit and raisins. Store in a tightly covered container or plastic bag. Makes 6 cups.
- From "Colorado Cache"
Caramel-Glazed Pear Cake
1 cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 cup brown sugar, packed
2 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 1/2 cups flour
2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 cup reserved pear syrup
1 can (16 oz.) pears, diced
1 cup raisins
1 cup walnuts, chopped
Caramel Glaze:
1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons reserved pear syrup
1/2 cup powdered sugar Cream together butter and sugar until light. Blend in eggs and vanilla. Sift together all dry ingredients and add to butter mixture alternately with pear syrup. Stir in pears, raisins and nuts; pour into a greased 9-by-13-inch pan. Bake at 400 degrees for 25 minutes or until done. While still warm, spread with caramel glaze.
For glaze, bring sugar, butter and syrup to a boil. Stir in powdered sugar and spread on cake.
- From "Colorado Cache"
Noisettes of Venison with Rosemary and Orange
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 noisettes of venison cut 3/4-inch from the saddle
2 tablespoon beef stock or water
1 tablespoon flour
2 cups heavy cream
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons freshly grated orange peel
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper In a large skillet, melt butter. Add venison and saute 3 minutes per side, turning once. Meat should be rare. Remove to warm platter and cover loosely to keep warm. Add stock and flour to skillet and deglaze, stirring constantly for about 3 minutes. Whisk together cream and Dijon mustard until thoroughly blended. Pour into skillet and continue whisking until incorporated. When sauce is heated through, reduce heat and add orange peel and rosemary. Simmer for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve with sauce.