In a favorite children's picture book, a little boy recounts the tale of the little fish that got away - a story that has been repeated by fishermen for eons.

Utah shoppers follow the same cycle: They explore the fishing waters of the local grocery, dangle a hook out and maybe even catch a piece of a dependable, safe fish like halibut. In fact, according to John Sands, seafood supervisor for Dan's, Utah is the fourth largest consumer of halibut in the country.When the summer grilling is easy, a halibut fillet makes a meal that much more palatable. Some folks will snag a catch of sole or red snapper, and, occasionally, a shopper will take the bait and carry a fillet of orange roughy through the checkout line.

But winter means the oven broiler goes to work . . . and work . . . and work. The skinny broiled fish could easily pass as a shoe resole job. We cook that finned form until every ounce of moisture evaporates, then wonderwhy it doesn't taste like the orange roughy at our favorite restaurant.

Ty Fredrickson, Market Street Broiler's manager, identifies overcooking as the No. 1 problem people have in preparing fish fillets.

"If the recipe says to cook 3 minutes, people will cook it for 20 - just to make sure it's done."

Sands agrees.

"People just cook it to death, thinking they can cook out any bacteria that may exist."

Recent questions about contaminated fish generate concern, but Marian Burros of the New York Times writes, "While no form of preparation will rid fish, or any food, of chemical contaminants, proper cooking will destroy the generally harmless bacteria responsible for spoilage and the potentially harmful bacteria associated with fecal material."

Sands suggests a cardinal rule of fish cooking, the standard by which any type of fish can be prepared:

"Cook fish 10 minutes per inch of thickness," Sands says. "That means a salmon fillet would ordinarily take 10 to 12 minutes, but Dover sole barely hits the pan and it's done."

Doneness can be determined by inserting the tip of a paring knife in the center of the thickest part of the fillet. Cooked fish is opaque or milky white and tender when done; uncooked fish is translucent or grayish white. Flakiness is not necessarily the best test of doneness; the texture of many soft-fleshed fish is so delicate that it will flake at any stage of doneness.

Not many home kitchens boast a mesquite broiler to prepare fish, but any kitchen can create an appetizing, flavorful fish dish by following a few simple rules.

Fredrickson advises home cooks to sear a fillet in a hot, Teflon-coated skillet before moving the fish to the grill or broiler.

"Searing seals in the juices and flavor. When the piece is transferred, it will remain tender and moist inside, while the outside grills. This process also makes it easier to get the piece off the grill; it won't stick or fall through the grate."

Fish continues to cook as long as it is hot. A whole fish, baked or poached for example, continues to cook for 10 to 20 minutes after it's removed from the heat source. Smaller pieces of fish will not hold the heat as long but will still cook until cool. Slightly undercook the fish if you aren't serving it right away.

A tasty fish-focused entree, carefully cooked, begins with cautious shopping at the market.

Sands says fish should have a four-day shelf life in the home refrigerator.

"If the fish isn't used in that time frame, it should be frozen. Refreezing previously frozen filets reduces some of the flavor value but does not reduce the nutritional value. If you don't plan to use the fish right away, ask for an already-frozen product."

Red flags intermittently signal concern for the overall safety of seafood, and the federally legislated inspection programs are voluntary.

Dealing with reliable processors and fishermen increases the probability of purchasing a fresh product, Sands says.

Within the next 60 days, all of the Market Street fish sold by Dan's will be federally inspected.

But even the inspection process doesn't eliminate consumer responsibility.

"I tell my customers to use the eye and nose tests. Put those senses to work. You can see a bright color in fish, a fish with strong eye appeal. You wouldn't buy a steak that's brown, so why a fish? Then ask the retailer to let you smell the fish before it's wrapped. Any unpleasant odor should be avoided. You don't want the Joneses, six doors down, to know you're having fish for dinner."

Planning a menu featuring fish often tugs at the family budget. Pricey fish may necessitate smaller portions or less frequent use, but moderately priced fish is always available.

Sands explains the hand-catching techniques involved in the ahi tuna harvest as an example of the cost factors.

"A No. 1 ahi fetches as much as $500 a pound on the Japanese market, but the boat crew can't determine the grade until the fish reaches the processor. That means every fish is caught with a single line, pulled up to the boat and rescued by hand, then iced down. An outing may only yield 10 fish, and only four will bring top price. The No. 2's have to compensate for the cost of catching the No. 1's."

Sounds like a long list of things to remember to enjoy a tender, succulent fillet of fish, but rest assured that the foremost reason for organizing all the fishing gear is healthy eating.

Fish, according to nutritional studies, is the smartest catch you can swallow. Besides being low fat, fish swims in Omega-3 fatty acids, those powerful nutrients that reduce the levels of blood fats - like cholesterol - or prevent blood clots.

"These highly unsaturated Omega-3 fats seem to give benefit in every study we've reviewed," says Dr. William Castelli, director of the Framingham Heart Study.

An impressive list of reasons not to let that little fish get away.

*****

(Additional information)

Seafood selection

Texture: Firm:

Flavor: Mild

Monkfish, Kingklip

Texture: Medium Firm

Flavor: Mild

Cod, Haddock, Tilefish, Grouper, Snapper,tilapia, Cusk, Ocean Pout, Wolffish

Texture: Delicate

Flavor: Mild

Flounder, Sole, Orange Roughy, Skate, Sea Trout, Weakfish, Alaska Pollock

Texture: Firm:

Flavor: Moderate

Shark, Sturgeon

Texture: Medium firm

Flavor: Moderate

Ocean Perch, Rockfish, Striped Bass, Walleye Pike, Turbot, Chum Salmon, Pink Salmon, Drums, Buffalofish, Rainbow Trout, Mahi-Mahi, Sea Bass, Mullet, Porgy, Scup, Atlantic Pollock, Pompano, Perch.

Texture: Delicate

Flavor: Moderate

Catfish, Whiting/Hake

Texture: Firm

Flavor: Full

Tuna, Marlin, Swordfish

Texture: Medium firm

Flavor: Full

Atlantic Salmon, King Salmon, Mackerel, Amberjack, Sockeye Salmon, Sablefish, Bluefish, Carp, Pomfret, Yellowtail.

Texture: Delicate

Flavor: Full

Herring, Sardine, Smelt, Eel, Butterfish

How much per person

Whole: 3-4 1 pound

Dressed: 1/2 - 3/4 pound

Steak/fillet: 1/3 - 1/2 pound

Cooked: 1/4 - 1/3 pound

Cooking time:

8-12 minutes per inch of thickness, regardless of cooking method.* Most fish is done when the fish is opaque and flakey.

*Except microwave

*****

RECIPES

Recipes

Submitted by Thelma O. Thelin, Salt Lake City Approximate cost: $9.47 Preparation time: 10 minutes plus baking time Yield: 4 servings Evaluation: Very easy and quick meal; crunchy coating is a tasty complement to the halibut. May be a special-occasion dish unless you get a good deal on halibut.

Oven-fried Halibut

2 cups cornflakes

Dash ground pepper

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

2 teaspoons fresh parsley, chopped

2 tablespoons oil Rinse and dry fish; cut into serving pieces. Crush cornflakes; sprinkle fish with pepper, garlic powder and chopped parsley. Dip in oil and coat with crumbs. Arrange in a single layer on a lightly oiled baking pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 20-30 minutes.

Submitted by Laurel J. Nebeker, Orem Approximate cost: $7.46 Preparation time: 20 minutes plus baking Yield: 6 servings Evaluation: Attractive, mild-flavored fish with a colorful vegetable/rice stuffing.

Cheesy Fish rollups

2 pounds fresh spinach or 1 package (10 oz.) frozen spinach

1/4 cup onion, minced

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/8 teaspoons pepper

1 1/2 cups mozzarella cheese, grated

1 cup white rice, cooked

1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

1 egg white

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 pound orange roughy Steam spinach, drain and chop. Saute onion in oil until tender; stir in garlic powder. Combine onion, cheese, rice and spinach, Parmesan cheese, egg white and pepper; mix well. Pour lemon juice in 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Cut fish into 6 equal strips. Spread 1/4 cup cheese mixture onto each strip and roll, securing with toothpick. Place seam side down in lemon juice. Cover and bake at 400 degrees for 30-35 minutes.

Submitted by Allison Bell, South Jordan Approximate cost: $5.80 Preparation time: 10 minutes plus cooking time Yield: 4-6 servings Evaluation: Spicy, flavorful seafood stew with zing of peppery seasoning. Could add additional varieties of fish or shellfish if desired.

Cioppino

1 pound firm-flesh fish

1 large onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 large green pepper, diced

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 cup water

2 cups stewed tomatoes with juice

1/4 teaspoon basil

1 tablespoon Old Bay seasoning

1/4 teaspoon marjoram

3 tablespoons lemon juice

6 or more mushrooms, halved

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Cut deboned fish in large bite-size pieces. Saute onion, garlic and green pepper in butter or margarine until crisp tender. Add water, tomatoes and seasonings. Heat to boiling, reduce heat, cover and simmer 10 minutes. Add mushrooms, lemon juice and vinegar; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cover, simmer for 10 minutes. Add fish and cover and simmer until done, about 8 minutes.

Submitted by Mary Robinson, Orem Approximate cost: $12.84 Preparation time: 10 minutes plus cooking time Yield: 4-6 servings Evaluation: Fairly expensive entree if fresh tuna is used, but could make a more economical dish with canned tuna. Hearty tomato/garlic sauce complements tuna. Remaining tomato paste can be added to sauce if another immediate use is unavailable.

Pasta with Fresh Tuna

1 tablespoon olive oil

3-4 cloves garlic, minced

1 small onion, chopped

3 pounds fresh tomatoes or 1 can (28 oz.) whole tomatoes, drained

1 tablespoon tomato paste

Salt and pepper to taste

Pinch of sugar

1 pound fresh tuna steaks

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon hot pepper flakes, optional

1 pound penne or rigatoni For sauce, saute onion and garlic in olive oil; add tomatoes and tomato paste. Add salt, pepper and sugar; simmer for 20 minutes.

Cut tuna into cubes. Saute garlic in oil for 2 minutes; add tuna and saute for 5 minutes. Break tuna into small pieces; add tomato mixture and red pepper flakes and cook about 10 minutes.

Cook pasta al dente; combine with sauce and serve.

Broiled Fish Amandine

Submitted by Darleen Masters, Orem

Approximate cost: $3.95, but depends on type of fish used.

Preparation time: 10 minutes plus cooking time

Yield: 4 servings

Evaluation: Basic broiled fish recipe that improves with a touch of pepper sauce.

1 pound fish

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1/4 teaspoon lemon peel, finely grated

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

Few dashes of hot pepper sauce

1/4 almonds, sliced

1 Tablespoons parsley, chopped

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Salt and pepper to taste

Melt butter or margarine; stir in lemon peel, lemon juice and pepper sauce.

Separate fish into four portions; place on unheated rack of broiler pan. Brush fish with lemon-butter mixture; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil 4 inches from heat for about 5-6 minutes or until browned. Brush a second time, turn and brush again. Brush with remaining lemon butter and broil another 5 minutes or until fish flakes easily. Top with almonds and parsley and serve.

-Note: Broiling time depending on thickness of fish fillet.

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