I can only guess that my family is up to something for Father's Day. Advertising sections of the paper are spirited away before I can get to them and hushed whispers and the crinkling of papers is heard behind closed doors.

When I happen to empty the trash, I find the ads with the latest high tech gas grills circled or checked. While my wife and kids might be trying to send their love in the form of a gift, I also get another message: "Dad, maybe this will help you get it right!"The best way to get any summer meal "right" when it comes to barbecue, at least for this smudge-faced, smoky smelling dad, is to let someone else do it.

And Joe Morley's in Midvale would easily be our choice.

During our recent visit, we sampled the tenderest beef brisket we've had just about anywhere along with the cherrywood smoked chicken and pork spare ribs. Several sauces are served along side the different meats, including a slight sweet piquant sauce and a rich tangy smoky barbecue sauce. This allows one to savor the result of the long smoking process that Joe Morley has down to a science. The beef is smoked for 14 hours and the chicken is marinated.

We sampled several of the special combination platters ($6.99) with a choice of two meats and two side dishes. The baked beans were barely lukewarm, though very good. We were especially impressed with a lightly dressed fresh cole slaw and the tempura style onion chips. The potato salad was also appealing. A bowl of steamed onions also comes with the dinners.

Another indication of the skill and care of the kitchen was a creamy clam chowder, just about as good as any we've had in the area. While a bowl could set you back $1.79, I had my eyes on the take-out price - a mere $5.99. That would certainly be plenty of servings for this Father's Day picnic that I undoubtedly would have to preside over.

A chocolaty homemade mud pie dessert ($1.69) included almonds and chocolate chips in hot fudge-covered ice cream. The crust was a dark chocolate crumb crust.

Other items on the menu include French fries, lean chopped smoked pork, and smoked Polish sausage. Sandwiches with each of the meats cost from $2 to $3 and the regular dinner platters range from $3.75 for the children's platter to $6.99 for the generous serving of spare ribs. Some of the biggest soft drinks around are also available.

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Family combinations, priced from $11.49 to $16.49, serve 3 to 4 adults with some left over.

While I am not sure which grill will end up on the patio this Father's Day, I will either reach new culinary heights or call Joe Morley.

Rating: * * * 1/2

Joe Morley's Smoked Beef Barbecue, 669 E. Center Street, Midvale. 255-8928. Open Monday through Saturday, from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. Accepts check with guarantee card and major credit cards. Catering service and take out available. Senior citizen discount.NOTE: After a few years hiatus from the University of Utah, Al Church will again teach his class for the Division of Continuing Education called "Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Dining but Were Afraid to Ask." Beginning June 23 and running on Tuesday and Thursday evenings for four weeks, participants will visit some of Salt Lake's more interesting restaurants, interview chefs, get a look behind the scenes at local warehouses, and explore the latest trends in the restaurant industry. The class is available for both credit and non-credit students. For further information contact DCE at 581-6233.

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