These delicious, gooey rolls remind me of the ones they served in the coffee shop near campus when I was in college. The recipe, however, is based on one I received from a reader in Phoenix, Ariz. She suggests digging into the warm roll and gently tearing the layers apart before eating it. After making my own lighter version of her recipe, I tried her method and found it a perfectly delightful way to enjoy these marvelous morning treats.

- EACH ROLL CONTAINS approximately 496 calories; 27 mg cholesterol; 13 gm fat; 335 mg sodium.Pasta is a mainstay in low-fat, low-calorie cooking, and I'd love to share some of my best pasta recipes with you. Just send $3 and a stamped (52 cents), self-addressed, legal-sized envelope to Pasta, PO Box 5541, Riverton, NJ08077-9911 and I'll send you my booklet, "Pasta - Everyone's Favorite Food."

Jeanne Jones is a consultant on menu planning, recipes and new-product development for major hotels and spas. She is also the author of 19 cookbooks, most recently "Jeanne Jones Entertains" (Crown, $30).

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GOOEY HOMEMADE CINNAMON-RAISIN ROLLS Rolls:

2 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 package active dry yeast (check date before using)

2 1/4 cups whole-wheat flour, approximately

1 cup non-fat milk

1/4 cup corn-oil margarine

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 egg

3 egg whites

Filling:

1/2 cup dark brown sugar

1/4 cup whole-wheat flour

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1/4 cup corn-oil margarine

3/4 cup raisins To make rolls, combine unbleached flour and yeast in a large mixing bowl; set aside. In a small saucepan over low heat, combine the milk, margarine, sugar and salt. Stir just until the margarine starts to melt (120 to 130 F). Add to the flour and yeast mixture, mixing well.

Add egg and egg whites to the flour mixture and beat with an electric mixer on low speed for 30 seconds, scraping the sides of the bowl constantly. Beat on high speed for 3 minutes. Using a spoon, stir in as much of the whole-wheat flour as you can.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead in enough of the remaining flour to make a soft dough that is smooth and elastic, kneading for about 4 minutes. Shape into a ball and place in a bowl which has been sprayed with a non-stick vegetable coating. Turn ball over once and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

While dough is rising, make the filling. Combine the brown sugar, flour and cinnamon in a medium-size bowl and mix well. Cut in the margarine until crumbly, using two knives or a pastry blender; set aside.

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Punch dough down and turn onto a lightly floured surface. Cover and allow to rise for 10 minutes. Roll dough out into a 12-inch square and spread the filling evenly over the dough. Top with raisins and roll up tightly like a jelly roll, pinching to seal the seam. Cut roll into eight 11/2-inch slices and arrange slices, cut side up, in a 9x13-inch baking dish. Cover the dish loosely with clear plastic wrap and allow to rise again until almost double in size, about 45 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 F. Before baking, remove the plastic wrap and lightly spray the tops of the rolls with a non-stick vegetable coating. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until lightly brown. If the rolls start to get too brown, cover them with foil the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking.

Remove the rolls from the oven and allow to cool for 2 minutes. Invert onto a wire rack and allow to cool slightly. Invert them again onto a serving dish. Serve warm or allow to cool to room temperature and freeze for future use.

Makes eight rolls.

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