The plain and very ordinary often exhibit a surprisingly aristocratic side.
Encased in a grubby, brown-tinged white wrapper, winter root vegetables stand virtually ignored by the world around. You might as well leave them stocked in the cellar for three seasons rather than harvest them with the hope of preparing an edible meal.A turnip's nothing more than that weird slice of something crunchy that appeared on your Friday school lunch tray when the cafeteria ran out of carrots and celery.
As for the turnip's cousin, rutabaga, no one even recognizes it as a family member.
Parsnips look like scrawny, albino carrots and must be cooked to render them edible.
Wintry rootedness aside, this trio of veggies loom as commonplace as snow drifts in season: always around, but purposely overlooked.
Surprising as it may seem, the disregarded vegetable group claims a royal connection.
Turnips were a delicacy in the Chou Dynasty, then appeared as a favored dish on the plates of Roman emperors. Escoffier, the classic French chef, created turnip and rutabaga purees and even coupled the lowly roots with sophisticated duck entrees.
In medieval times, parsnips were thought to be an aphrodisiac, and, as such, were in great demand.
Contemporary chefs specializing in nouvelle cuisine often feature tantalizing purees of winter vegetables.
A bit of information on the unlikely collection may provide a link to regal preferences for the seemingly lowly turnip, rutabaga or parsnip.
- Turnips - Young varieties can be peeled, sliced and eaten raw with dips or in salads. More often, however, turnips are boiled or steamed, then tossed with butter and parsley. Turnips can also be boiled and mashed with butter and cream, pureed for soups or added to soups.
Turnips should be firm to the touch, not spongy or rubbery and should feel heavy for their size. Avoid buying large turnips, which may be woody inside. Turnips will keep several weeks in a cool, humid place or in the refrigerator.
- Rutabaga - A cross between a turnip and a wild cabbage, it resembles a turnip in shape, but is golden yellow inside. When cooked, the flesh is sweet and firm.
Peeled, boiled and buttered, it makes a delicious companion to meats, especially ham, duck and pork. It can be added to winter soups and stews or sliced thinly and baked with stock and buttered bread crumbs. Rutabagas can be sliced and parboiled, then pan-fried with apples as a side dish for pork.
To purchase, look for firm, unblemished roots; avoid spongy ones. Like turnips, rutabagas should feel heavy for their size. Small ones are particularly sweet while large rutabagas may have a woody interior. The vegetables can be stored in cool humid areas or refrigerated for several weeks.
- Parsnips - A sweet-flavored member of the carrot family, parsnips are always eaten cooked; they are starchy and tough when raw. Cooked parsnips have a texture and flavor somewhere between carrots and sweet potatoes.
Parsnips may be peeled, sliced and steamed like carrots, or boiled then mashed with butter and cream. They may be cut into chunks and added to soups or stews or baked in the oven with meat stock and butter.
When buying, looked for small parsnips; larger ones may have woody cores. Avoid parsnips that are limp or shriveled or have splits or brown spots. Choose those that are reasonably uniform; misshapen ones that have to be severely trimmed are uneconomical.
Parsnips should be stored, refrigerated in a plastic bag, for three to four days.
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RECIPES
PARSNIP AND APPLE PUREE
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup water
4 large Granny Smith or other tart apples
2 pounds parsnips, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 tablespoons butter, cut in pieces
1/4 cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 teaspoon coriander
Black pepper, freshly ground
Fresh mint sprigs for garnish
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Combine lemon juice and water in large bowl. Peel, core and cut apples into eighths, drop into acidulated water.
Place prepared parsnips in a shallow baking pan; add drained apples and 1/4 cup of the acidulated water. Dot with butter; add broth and sprinkle with sugar, coriander and pepper. Cover and bake 11/2 hours, stirring occasionally during baking.
Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. Transfer parsnips, apples and cooking liquid to food processor or blender and puree until smooth. Reheat if necessary and serve with mint garnish if desired. Makes 6 servings.
- From "The New Basics Cookbook"
- Each serving contains 139 calories; 8 gm fat; 209 mg sodium; 21 mg cholesterol.
COLD WEATHER ROOT SOUP
4 tablespoons butter
3 medium onions, peeled and sliced
2 leeks, trimmed, halved lengthwise, washed and sliced
5 carrots, peeled, trimmed and sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1 bay leaf
2 small turnips, peeled quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced
3 thin parsnips, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
2 medium potatoes, peeled, quartered and thinly sliced
6 1/2 cups chicken stock
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
1/3 cup heavy cream
Freshly ground white or black pepper
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
Cheddar cheese
Saute onions, leeks, carrots, garlic, salt and bay leaf in 3 tablespoons butter; cover and cook 15 minutes.
Add turnips, parsnips, potatoes, broth and nutmeg. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, Simmer, covered, until the vegetables are tender, about 1 hour. Remove bay leaf.
Transfer about half the vegetables and a little of the liquid to a food processor; puree until smooth. Return the puree to the soup, add cream and bring to a boil. Add peppers to taste and salt if needed. Just before serving, swirl in the remaining butter; sprinkle with Parmesan and cheddar cheeses. Makes 8 servings.
- From "From the Farmer's Market"
- Each serving contains 253 calories; 13 gm fat; 1048 mg sodium; 36 mg cholesterol.
TURNIP-CHEESE BAKE
2 cups turnips, peeled and diced
1 cup cottage cheese
1 cup yogurt or buttermilk
1 cup cheddar cheese, grated
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced
1/2 cup onions, chopped
2 eggs, beaten
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh marjoram
Cook turnips in a small amount of water for 20-30 minutes or until tender; drain. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Combine cottage cheese, yogurt or buttermilk, cheddar, parsley, onions, eggs, garlic and marjoram. Add turnips and mix. Pour mixture in 9-inch square buttered baking dish and bake, covered, for 40 minutes. Makes 4-6 servings.
- From "Basic Natural Foods Cookbook"
- Each serving contains 253 calories; 14 gm fat; 517 mg sodium; 142 mg cholesterol.
BLANCHED WINTER VEGETABLES WITH THYME
3 small turnips
2 small rutabagas
2 or 3 broccoli stalks
2 carrots, peeled
Salt
2-3 teaspoons butter
Fresh parsley, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Black pepper, freshly ground
Peel and slice turnips and rutabagas 1/4-inch thick. Diagonally slice broccoli 1/4-inch thick. Slice carrots.
Taste vegetables to determine if some seem tougher than others; often rutabagas will need to be cooked a little longer.
Add vegetables to pot of salted, boiling water according to the cooking time needed. Cook until crisp tender, drain and saute with butter, parsley and thyme. Adjust salt and pepper and serve. Makes 4 servings.
- From "The Savory Way"
- Each serving contains 78 calories; 3 gm fat; 91 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol.
TURNIPS AND PARSNIPS AU GRATIN
6 tablespoons butter
1 pound turnips, peeled and grated
1 pound parsnips, peeled and grated
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup coarse bread crumbs
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Heat 4 tablespoons butter; add turnips and parsnips and sprinkle with salt, sugar and pepper. Saute uncovered, tossing often until nearly tender, about 10 minutes.
Transfer to buttered 7-by-11-inch casserole; add enough heavy cream to cover; sprinkle with bread crumbs. Dot with remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Bake until crumbs are crisp and golden, about 45 minutes. Makes 6-8 servings.
- From "From the Farmer's Market"
- Each serving contains 364 calories; 27 gm fat; 595 mg sodium; 85 mg cholesterol.
LAMB AND TURNIP STEW
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 pounds lean lamb, cut into 2-inch chunks and dredged in flour
9 cups water
3 medium turnips or rutabagas, peeled and cubed
5 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped or 1 can (28 oz.) chopped tomatoes
2 carrots, peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon oregano
2 teaspoons tarragon
2 bay leaves
Salt and black pepper to taste
1/2 cup parsley, chopped
In a Dutch oven, heat the oil and lightly brown onion and garlic. Add meat and brown all sides. Add water, cover and simmer for 11/2 hours. Skim the fat and froth off the surface; add vegetables, oregano, tarragon and bay leaves. Cover and cook for 45 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper; stir in parsley just before serving. Makes 6 servings.
- From "Vegetables"
- Each serving contains 236 calories; 11 gm fat; 75 mg sodium; 63 mg cholesterol.
PARSNIPS WITH BROWN BUTTER
1 pound parsnips, peeled
2-3 tablespoons browned butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt
2 tablespoons bread crumbs, toasted until crisp and golden
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, finely chopped, or a mixture of fresh tarragon, parsley and chives
Cut parsnips in even lengths. Set in steaming basket over boiling water; cover and cook until tender but still firm.
Heat browned butter in saute pan; add parsnips and stir to coat. Cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the parsnips begin to brown. Add lemon juice, salt, bread crumbs and herbs. Toss and serve. Makes 3-4 servings.
For browned butter, clarify and leave on heat. More foam will rise to the surface, and the butter will begin to sound as if it's frying. Skim the foam so the butter is visible. When it turns golden brown, remove it from the heat and decant immediately; it will continue to darken if it sits in the pan. Store in tightly covered jar and refrigerate.
- From "The Savory Way"
- Each serving contains 252 calories; 8 gm fat; 301 mg sodium; 22 mg cholesterol.