SOMETIMES FALL/WINTER menswear fashions are ideal for men in California and Florida; but designers forget about those of us who have to face rain, snow, sleet and ice.
This year, however, fashion trends don't just cover the bare necessities - they make survival in cold climes bearable.When fall/winter '93 menswear lines were introduced several months ago at the Men's Fashion Association's show in New York, attendees found a compatible balance between runway fashions and fashions for reality.
This wasn't accidental. MFA fashion director Tom Julian acknowledged, "There has to be a balance between the cutting edge of fashion and what the public needs and wants."
Some of the MFA's trend forecasts were:
- A FLAIR FOR FLANNEL: We're not talking only about shirts made of flannel, but in sleepwear, streetwear, outerwear - and tailored clothing.
But flannel isn't the only warm fabric making headlines this winter. Items in Ralph Lauren's fall/winter collection of sculpted and padded jumpsuits, jackets and sweaters are made with advanced, coated fabrics such as Microft Vixy and Polus coated nylon. They are sturdy, breathable, water-repellent, wind-proof and translate beautifully from ski slope to street.
Lauren's quilted, silver-coated nylon bomber jacket is paired with slender ballistic stretch Cordura ski pants, while a black waterproof leather vest keeps international sportsmen dry and warm with a retractable rip-stop nylon hood and red Polartec fleece lining.
- A SWEET TOOTH FOR SWEATERS: Reports indicate that sweaters are on an upswing, and many men's fashion designers have jumped on the bandwagon - favoring "ragamuffin" styles, varied textures and rollneck sweaters.
Included in Tommy Hilfiger's "Field and Stream" collection are hand-knitted sweaters sporting a variety of fish motifs and printed shirts with fly-fishing lures in both pique and twill.
Donna Karan New York (DKNY) boasts myriad sweaters that "range from sensual striped ribs to beefy tweeds and vintage novelties."
- THE LAYERED LOOK: Layered sportswear provides an opportunity for the individual to mix patterns and fabrics to create his own image while keeping warm. And textures range from corduroy to brushed wools to thermal knits.
Ruff Hewn is showcasing great cold-weather layering pieces, such as soft, thick crewneck sweaters topped with shirts cut full and roomy and layered with canvas field jackets to act as barriers against Mother Nature's blustery personality.
Hilfiger's Nova Scotia collection provides comfort as well as a clothing that can withstand the elements. The key is combining different textures and patterns. For example: a woodsman plaid shirt and a denim overshirt with herringbone pants or a suede field coat with a tweed wool blazer and brushed twill pants. The colors - red mixed with black, green, brown and earth tones - capture a rustic flair.
Mondo di Marco's blazers for fall/winter '93 are offered in single- and double-breasted models in cashmere blend fabrications in both solids and patterns. Zippered pockets and boldly patterned lining fabrics have been added to the jackets to give them a definitive fashion statement. Wool and wood crepe fabrications in a variety of patterns and textures round out the blazer offerings from this designer sportswear collection.
- OUTERWEAR OUTFITTING: Thanks in large part to CBS's "Northern Exposure," outerwear has become a 12-month business. The rugged outdoorsman never looked better in suede, leather and new fabrics to keep cold out and warmth in.
J.C. Penney agrees that the appeal of the "great outdoors" trend takes the best rough-and-ready gear - denim shirts and jeans, nubby sweaters, multihued tweeds and flannel shirts - and give it a fashionable tweak.
And since comfort in sportswear is very important, these rugged styles bridge the gap between fashion and function. Joe Sapienza of J.C. Penney says, "Because comfort is a key, most silhouettes continue to be oversized - whether it's a loose-fit jean, plaid shirt, hooded sweater or a canvas barn coat. Men want clothes that move with them."
Colours by Alexander Julian celebrates the reunion of man and nature with a collection warm enough to entice men to spend the day outdoors instead of "camping out" on a living room couch.
This season, the designer has added a variety of outerwear pieces. There are leather jackets and suede jackets in both waist-length and midthigh length; and canvas hunting jackets with leather-quilted linings to be worn while enjoying the splendor of the outdoors.
The Max Raab collection for Tango is immersed in woodland landscapes, autumn tones and natural fabrications. The designer combines the rustic edge of plaids and tartans with wildlife prints and rural stripings.
- GREAT IN-VEST-MENTS: Vests are the season's single most important accessory, says Sapienza. "The vest can be worn over T-shirts or sweaters, under sportcoats, with a suit or with jeans."
DKNY calls the vest "the ultimate accessory." It can be worn with everything from flannel suits to tattered jeans. The DKNY collection has "every shape and style under the sun" in fabrics from felt, tweed and fleece to rugged leather and suede. "Wear them under tailored jackets, over sweaters, or on their own with union suits," the designer suggests.
- NOVELTY NAVAJO: The Navajo pattern in shirts, vests, sweaters and outerwear is strong this season. Bold colors of traditional Navajo tapestries are paired with cool solids to create eye-boggling emphasis and subordination.
For fall/winter '93, J.O.E. by Joseph Abboud pays tribute to the spirit of the aboriginal North American civilization in modern, rugged sportswear. Abboud says, "It's really an ode to the American artisan. The beautiful Indian colors and intricate handwork and details allow each piece to stand on its own."
In addition, these clothes are based in reality. "There's nothing precious going on; you want to wear them over and over again," adds Abboud. "That's why our sweaters are big and easy, our leather worn in and our jeans softly faded."
- OTHER FASHION TRENDS FOR FALL/WINTER '93:
- English themes endure in tweed, lambswool, plaid and checked sport coats.
- Sport jackets are longer (321/2 vs. 31 inches), narrower lapels (3 inches), and four or five button closures.
- Monochromatic dressing is "in." We're talking about combining tints and shades of the same color. Many designers have capitalized on brown - especially tobacco, cappucino, chocolate and mocha. But blue runs a close second.
- Leather isn't afraid of the elements because it comes washed and faded (DKNY, Wilsons) and in rich colors (Ron Chereskin, Coach, North Beach).
- Detailing is important. Designers have used contrasting fabrics to trim garments as well as added whipstitching to give textural interest.
- The most visible treatment in menswear is the zipper. Designers have placed zippers for fantasy as well as function.
- Underwear (T-shirts, long johns and thermals) is meant to be seen.