A case of Sandyitis, defined as "the fear of getting lost in a sprawling suburb amid large houses," is probably the reason it has taken so long for us to visit Erik's, an attractively appointed restaurant in a sterile strip mall in this mushrooming part of Salt Lake County.
Our dinner companions shared some of this phobia, adding their recollection of the rolling hills and pastures that occupied the same spot not more than a decade earlier.But Sandy's growth is good for the state's economy, even if it doesn't attract city folk accustomed to subcultural hangouts and East Coast megacompanies looking for places to relocate. And suburbanites we know are thrilled that Erik's is at least close to them. After our meal, we can understand their loyalty to their neighborhood gourmet eatery.
The interior decor, muted with earthy grays and pastel pinks, is accentuated by abstract prints and freshly cut Peruvian lilies on the tables. This elegant, fragrant flower is the appropriate logo for Erik's comparably elegant and aromatic cuisine.
We received more than a hint of the creativity of the kitchen with the sampling of appetizers on the mixed platter ($5.95) sampler. The colorful and brimming plate included slices of pineapple and kiwi, pieces of the baked fontina, several cold shrimp with cocktail sauce, and a serving of the cashew chicken salad laced with tart apple chunks and green grapes. We also savored the roasted elephant garlic ($4.75), served warm in a thyme butter for spreading over sourdough toast rounds.
Other appetizer selections include sauteed mushrooms with scallions, cream sherry and tomatoes ($4.95); spinach salad ($5.75); smoked salmon salad with almonds and a salsa vinaigrette ($6.25); and the other choices from the sampler, each around $5.
Dinners also come with Pierre's and Finn's breads and dinner salads with a choice of dressings. The house dressing, a tart raspberry vinaigrette, is full-bodied and flavorful enough to overcome several of our soggy dinner salads. A fresh blue cheese was just a bit too sparse with the blue cheese. The cream of celery soup was a thick roux that needed a few dashes of salt to resurrect any discernable flavor. The kitchen had run out of the turkey vegetable soup.
Choices of entrees are numerous, intriguing and appealing. The recommended house specialty, broiled chicken raspberry vinaigrette ($13.65), consists of a marinated and grilled boneless chicken breast topped with a raspberry sauce that was a bit bland. Another specialty of the kitchen, smoked barbecue prawns ($16.25), was more appetizing in print than on platter. A heavy dose of spices drowned any subtlety of the hickory-smoked shrimp and dark beer garlic sauce. The good-size shrimp were overdone.
The best entree was Erik's pepper steak ($17.90), two beef tenderloins in a zesty dijon sauce laced with whole peppercorns.
Entrees come with a choice of rice or small red potatoes, the latter barely boiled and finished in the oven with lots of butter and crispy skin. A sauteed squash medley was also very nicely done.
Other eclectic entree choices include chicken dijon ($7.95); parmesan herb chicken with fresh basil and marinara sauce ($7.90); honey sesame chicken with a mustard glaze ($7.75); Cajun pork chops with honey horseradish sauce ($7.95); chicken artichoke pasta with ginger butter, fresh tomatoes, mushrooms and artichoke hearts ($7.50); Cajun chicken alfredo pasta with spinach fettucine ($7.75); crab stuffed manicotti ($6.25); shrimp rosemary with garlic butter and cream sherry ($15.95); chicken vernique with herbs, white wine and green grapes ($10.75); chicken modena with red and yellow peppers and onions in balsamic vinegar ($12.25); chicken picatta with artichoke hearts and capers ($14.20); chicken diablo with shrimp served with a peppercorn mustard sauce ($15.75); and evening seafood specials including fresh Atlantic salmon, breaded catfish and mahi mahi.
Several entrees are indicated as having reduced saturated fat and cholesterol, and diners can choose to split main courses with side orders of vegetables for $4.95.
Given the indulgence of the evening, as well as the celebration that we made it to 10200 South without getting too lost, we shared several of the luscious homemade desserts. The praline and chocolate torte with Canadian vanilla was supported by a rich buttery crust. The kahlua cheesecake was dense and sweet. Chocolate fudge brownie, chocolate chip cheesecake, mud pie and several ice cream selections round out the dessert menu.
A busy Saturday night as well as a lengthy menu might account for some of the unevenness we encountered during our recent visit. But even with a few miscues, it is quite apparent why Sandy residents and other travelers of the culinary byways sing the praises of Erik's ambitious and appetizingly adventurous bill of fare.
Rating: * * * 1/2
Erik's, 10263 S. 1300 East (Alta View Shopping Center), Sandy. 572-6123. Open Monday and Tuesday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Wednesday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday brunch. Accepts checks with guarantee card and major credit cards. Reservations recommended for weekends.