There is obvious affection and respect for American Indians in the notations on the menu at Theresa's Indian Village. It reads like an abbreviated history of North America's first citizens. Each of the 20 entree items are named, with a brief description, after such legendary figures as Chief Sitting Bull, renowned for Custer's "Last Stand," and the venerated Tekawitha, the recently sainted "Lily of the Mohawks," to name a few.
The setting is also intended to set a historical mood. Tepee-covered booths encircle a large Southwest scene, complete with cactus, desert creatures and figurines. Each tepee has an enclosed display of statues, reflecting an aspect of American Indian cultures. An old-fashioned kerosene lamp swings over the wooden tables.The atmosphere is an engaging variation on the Western theme set by places like the Prairie Schooner in Ogden and Murray's Wagonmaster; but the menu is traditional steak house fare. Unfortunately, during our recent Saturday night visit, there was little imaginative let alone engaging with the five entrees we sampled.
Soggy fried onion rings, one of the choices that comes with the entrees, were disappointing, as were a platter of fried-mushroom appetizers ($4.50). A drab house honey mustard dressing languished atop paltry iceberg lettuce dinner salads. The one baked potato we tried was small and had been too long in the oven. The "reservation beans" that came with each entree were barely warm and undercooked.
The recommended Squanto ($12.95), barbecued ribs, were several cuts of tough, overcooked beef. Any sign of rib bones were imbedded along with gristle. Had the Pilgrims been met with this offering from their Wampanoag host, they might have considered a return trip.
A seafood special of grilled salmon filet accompanied by deep-fried scallops and shrimps had to be sent back because the salmon was barely cooked on the first trip to the table. The 20-ounce prime rib ($18.95), named after Powhatan, founder of the Algonquin Confederacy, looked more like the 10-ounce Pocahontas, and while medium rare, was chewy and tasteless.
The fried chicken ($9.95) had a nice crunchy breading, but the small pieces resembled a scrawny game hen. A spongy wheat squaw bread was brought by our slightly disoriented waiter after we had finished our entrees. A raspberry butter was cloyingly sweet. An adequate dish was the deep-fried stuffed artichoke appetizer , filled with a mild white cheese.
Other entrees include the 64-ounce Porterhouse steak ($49.95), free if one diner eats it all; the Crazy Horse ($25.50), a 32-ounce Porterhouse; the Chief Joseph ($16.95), a 16-ounce New York; the Pontiac ($16.50), a 16-ounce T-bone; the Sacajawea ($15.95), five large breaded shrimp; Chief Rain-in-the-Face ($19.95 or $29.95) for single or double lobster tails; Crow King ($28.95), a steak and lobster combination; and several other portions for children or seniors, including the Hiawatha hamburger ($5.95) and Minnehaha 8-ounce New York ($8.95).
Our waiter was not sure of the origin of the desserts, either homemade or prepared elsewhere; his uncertainty discouraged us and we declined. Pie a la modes, cheesecake, parfaits and sundaes are offered, each $2.50.
There is a preface to the menu that describes how American Indians were always looking for a feast during times of plenty. When such a celebration took place, the feast would last as long as there was food left, since the "next day would take care of itself." Despite the plenty in atmosphere and sincerity at Theresa's, a scarcity of skill in the kitchen left us with little festive feeling.
Rating: * 1/2
Theresa's Indian Village, 50 E. 200 South, Clearfield. 825-9371. Open for lunch Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. until 2 p.m.; dinner 5 until 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday. Accepts major credit cards and local check with guarantee card. Reservations recommended for weekends.