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DESIGNER’S MENSWEAR COMES IN ONLY 1 SIZE

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Designers often have themselves in mind when they create a collection. But when Charivari introduces Martin Margiela's first menswear pieces in September, shoppers may find that inspiration too literal.

"They're only making one size, which happens to be Margiela's size," said Jon Weiser, Charivari's vice president, of the collection. "I would characterize him as a 38 or a medium. It's a long and skinny collection for long and skinny kinds of guys."Lanky looks include a vinyl blouson jacket, a black nylon military coat, a long cowboy duster in black cotton, white sailor pants and 18th-century big peasant shirt in linen.

Two of Margiela's themes from the women's collection are being carried over. His Barbie clothes, doll-like clothes blown up to human size, are also in the men's collection, like jackets with buttons like big snaps and what Weiser called "a Ken jean, with a short zipper but a funny, huge pull on it."

And then Weiser's favorite. "They took antique garments and reproduced them, researching the fabrics to do them exactly the same," he said. "They didn't feel comfortable putting their label on, so the label reads, for instance, `this is a replica of an antique garment circa 1903.' "