There is something irresistibly pleasing about this capital of the French Riviera.

Perhaps what's best is that the bustle of a thriving city doesn't detract from the easygoing, small-town ambience that captivates all who visit.Nice (pronounced niece) is a commercial center with lots of shops and businesses, but commerce seems to segue nicely into lengthy strolls along Promenade des Anglais. That seaside boulevard, rich in palm trees and flowers, separates age-old town houses and palatial hotels from the Mediterranean's pebbled shores.

At the eastern end of the promenade is Lido Plage, one of Nice's 15 public beaches and a favorite of sun-worshipers who want to show off their tans.

Outdoor bistros shaded by umbrellas punctuate the promenade and line the narrow winding streets of Nice's historic Old Town. The Nicois, as residents are called, nurse a beverage so it will last until late in the afternoon, when passionate conversations on culture and world affairs wind down.

Visit Le Chateau, a lovely public garden and park set atop the rocky promontory where the ruling dukes of Savoy's castle once stood. Take in the flower market at Cours Selaya in Old Town, then browse through nearby vendor stalls for bric-a-brac and gadgets that sell for a song.

The city's museums cater to the Nicois' interest in art and history. Musee National Marc Chagall heralds the artist who lived at nearby Saint-Paul-de-Vence. Musee Cheret features an eclectic collection of art, ranging from Renaissance to Impressionist, from primitive to contemporary. And along with the art at Musee Massena are memorabilia of two of Nice's most famous sons - Marshal Massena, Napoleon's marshal, and Garibaldi, the Italian patriot who was born in Nice, then in France but later a part of the kingdom of Sardinia. In the nearby town of Cimiez, Musee Matisse pays homage to Henri Matisse with his art and personal belongings from his homes in Nice and Cimiez.

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A minitrain, a string of awning-covered six-seater carriages pulled by a small truck - is popular with tourists. The 45-minute trip, about $15 per person, starts and ends at a kiosk on Promenade des Anglais.

As the train rolls through Old Town, a guide describes landmark buildings, monuments and plazas in Italian, English, French, German and other languages specific to tour groups. After a climb to the top of Le Chateau, the train stops for 10 minutes so passengers may drink in the views of Cote d'Azur and hit the refreshment and souvenir kiosk.

If views along the Cote d'Azur are irresistible, use Nice as a gateway for exploring the resorts and towns nestled along the shore and in the rocky coastal mountains.

Nice is a hub for accessing the glitter of Monaco with its casino and night life, the chic of celebrity-clad Cannes and its world-famous film festival, the relaxed ambience of Saint-Paul-de-Vence and its artists' colony, the charms of ancient Villefranche's harbor front and dozens of little fishing villages, each with little eateries serving up steaming bouillabaisse and other local cuisine.

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