Men typically react much more slowly to fashion trends than women, so it will be interesting to see how much hesitation they have over the trends for spring. Men should start preparing themselves for body-contoured suits, second-skin knits and cigarette-slim pants. This is not an encouraging development for any man who has been putting off the task of losing those extra holiday pounds.
The direction for spring '96 is definitely trimmer silhouettes, and their most likely companions are dramatic, high-energy color; the use of fabrics that are stretchy, shiny or sheer; and an overall emphasis on more elegant dressing.Even though it seems unlikely that most men will allow their wardrobes to be turned upside-down overnight, designers are calling it a menswear revolution.
For years, men have made fun of the fact that women have had to shimmy, squeeze, or even shoehorn themselves into the latest styles. Never did men think such a possibility was awaiting them. Well, it is.
The new suits for men are trim, tailored and body-tracing. Many of them are pinched at the waist, slim at the hips and a little less broad at the shoulders. When stretch fabrics and microribbed weaves are used, the effect is to only underscore the new trimmer lines.
Dress shirts will be made of a much softer cotton with shorter point collars and hidden button-down collars. That should satisfy those who accept the old fashion dictum that button-downs should never be worn with a suit. The shorter collars call for smaller knots in ties.
White shirts, traditionally considered the most formal acceptable look, are now considered sporty, too. Perry Ellis is convinced that a correct white shirt, for instance, worn with a snappy navy/white polka-dot tie, navy suspenders and full-cut, double-pleated, white linen trousers looks casual and sophisticated at the same time.
Even sportswear is affected by this new slim image, which includes skinny sportswear, active-wear-influenced knits that are stretchy and sleek and capri pants that are cigarette-slim. Obviously, these styles will not fit every man, but the fact is that even the kinder cuts are going for the straight and narrow.
In the spring there will be longer suit jackets and sportcoats, more plain-front pants and fluid fine-gauge sweater knits that don't have to be skintight to suggest the body-conscious style. The longer length and the low two-button stance give the jacket lean, modern lines.
The new bright colors, from pastels to brash primary brights, seem to fit the trim look. Blues are reigning supreme in this scenario - sky blue, turquoise and the blue you bring home in a Tiffany box. Blues will fit well with the tans and naturals people already have in their closets, but they will also go well with the new bright colors of spring - oranges and reds, for example.
Men should be prepared for a slice of the Internet with synthetic fibers that are reflective, shiny or polished to a high gloss. Such materials make outerwear more streamlined for spring but also put their imprint on suits with sharkskin or subtly metallic finishes, as well as shiny shirts and knits showing pop-art patterns and computer prints.
These pieces are sometimes combined in unconventional ways - for instance, a nylon surf shirt under a trim tailored suit. On the softer side, there are candy-colored silk suits and satin-touch shirts.
The "safari look" comes with ethnic prints and spice tones, seemingly drawn from a long march out of Africa or down the Amazon. Some military-influenced designs emphasize functional details, such as flapped, pleated or cargo pockets. There will even be a safari suit, too, although it is doubtful that anyone will wear it except gutsy models on the runway.
The traditional preppy and Ivy League looks are back strong for spring, with some variations. Some look like true classics, while others are trying to create new classics, such as sportcoats boasting exploded Madras plaids, nautical themes with offbeat accent colors or contemporary patterns.
Other retro influences range from uppercrust to kitsch. There are also soft-toned interpretations of golf and tennis styles, bringing to mind the Great Gatsby or Brides-head Revisited. For younger men, stripes, checks and argyles are very much in evidence in bolder tones. It's called classic American '50s sportswear with a graphic accent.
Friday-wear is going to be even bigger, and men will still demand casual comfort, maybe even more than they did before. Some designers, such as Brian McKinney, are relaxing the rules by offering a double-breasted suit with wool drawstring pants, worn with a vertical-striped, collarless cotton shirt. Haggar City Casuals is showing an olive three-button linen blend sportcoat and natural linen trousers that are definitely laid back.
Whichever trends you choose, it is clear that the fitted and more elegant look has arrived. It will provide not only more variety but also more reasons for all men to watch their waistlines.