When people in the organic-farm movement say "think globally, buy locally," they probably do not have Villa Pillo extra-virgin olive oil in mind. This lovely herbaceous oil, with a nice piney scent and the merest hint of a peppery bite, comes from an estate in Tuscany owned by John and Kathe Dyson, who own Millbrook Vineyards much closer to home, in Millbrook, N.Y. Dyson's bumper sticker may proclaim "I Love New York," the slogan he invented, but it is clear that he also loves Tuscany. The oil, in a 17.5-ounce flask, is $20 at Grace's Marketplace, 1237 Third Ave. (71st Street), and $16.99 at the winery in Millbrook.
Barneys New York has also introduced an extra-virgin olive oil, from the Macie estate in the Chianti region of Tuscany, and sells it under the Fred's label at Barneys New York. This oil is richer and more viscous than the Villa Pillo oil, with a warm, nutty flavor that would make it excellent to drizzle into a vegetable soup or gloss onto a slice of pecorino cheese. The oil is $21.
- Florence Fabricant