Now that the weather is warming up, it's a good time to clean and inspect the rain gutters. They probably have accumulations of leaves and dirt that can block the flow of rainwater. The weight of the debris and rainwater can cause the gutters to sag and pull away from the house. Once the gutters are cleaned out, you can inspect them for damage and make necessary repairs.
If you have a low roof, you can work from a stepladder. Remember, however, never to stand on the top step. If your roof has a gentle slope, you may be able to climb on the roof to clean the gutters. Wear shoes with slip-resistant soles and make sure that the roof is dry and free of debris. Do not attempt to work from a roof that has a steep pitch. If you have a high roof, you'll have to set up an extension ladder.Be careful when maneuvering the ladder into position around power lines. Also make sure that the base of the ladder is stable on solid ground and that it is the proper distance away from the house, that is 1/4 of the ladder length. Ladder stays are available at most home centers.
You only need a few tools to clean the gutters: a hose with spray nozzle, a bucket, a whisk broom, a putty knife and a small trowel. Clip the bucket handle to a ladder rung with an S-hook. Use the putty knife and trowel to dislodge and remove the leaves, twigs and dirt. Use the whisk broom to sweep small amounts of dirt into piles for easier pickup. You can also use your hands to scoop out the debris, but be sure to wear heavy-duty gloves. Deposit all the collected material in the bucket. After you have removed the debris, use the hose to wash the gutters clean.
Next, examine the downspouts and make sure they are not clogged. If one is clogged, chances are that you'll find wet leaves in an elbow joint. Try to pull the leaves out; you may have to remove the elbow to do this. Do not attempt to force leaves through the downspout, this will push them into the center section and make matters worse. If the clog is deeper into the downspout, you may be able to clear it with water. Use the hose to shoot a strong stream into the opening. Take care to avoid getting hit by any over spray. Another way to remove an obstruction is by forcing a plumber's snake down the downspout.
When the gutters and downspouts are clean, inspect them for corrosion and cracks. If you find a damaged section, use a wire brush to remove the rust, then apply a liberal coating of roofing cement over the area and at least six inches beyond in both directions. Cut a piece of metal flashing large enough to cover the damaged area. Embed this patch in the cement, then apply a second coat of roofing cement. You can also use roofing cement to give the inside of the gutters a protective finish.
Thin the roofing cement with mineral spirits, then brush it on all areas where the paint has worn thin. Inspect all gutter seams for possible leaks. It's difficult to tell if a seam leaks when there is no water in the gutter, but these seams often drip dirty water and leave dark streaks on the siding below. If you suspect any seam of being less than watertight, you should seal it up before it gets worse.
Sometimes, for minor leaks, you can force sealant into the seam without taking the pieces apart. Use a caulk-sealant specifically formulated for aluminum gutters. It is synthesized to adhere and remain resilient in hot and cold temperatures. Gutter sealant is available in cartridges at well-stocked home centers.
If you cannot push the sealant into the joint, you'll have to open the seam.
After you've made all the necessary repairs to the gutters, inspect the mounting brackets to be sure that they are secure and the gutters haven't pulled away from the roof. Don't forget to check the brackets that hold the downspouts to the wall.