Eileen Fisher, active in women's clothing since 1984, designs minimalist clothing in natural fabrics that convey a sense of ease and understated elegance. The collection is intended to work as a system and give women the ability to express themselves simply.

Her clothing is sold in Nordstrom and nearly 2,000 specialty stores across the country. The overriding trends are comfort, practicality and affordability. Thinking that most women want continuity rather than dramatic swings, Fisher has built her entire business on consistent comfort.Her fall collection is no exception. It is comfortable, practical, uncomplicated and subtly feminine.

Fisher is using merino wool interlock to add an element of structure to the fine-gauge knits that are intrinsic to her system of dressing. The three-dimensional knit has a "memory" that maintains the garment's shape and lends itself to more-tailored, sophisticated suiting.

Fisher is showing the knit in jackets, such as the notched-lapel cardigan and the simple jacket with collar. The look is polished without compromising freedom of movement.

She is also featuring merino wool rib sweaters in rich colors such as kiwi, forest, wine and blue-violet. The funnel-neck pullover is classic and chic when combined with Fisher's new slim pant. The kimono-inspired shawl cardigan is available in two flattering lengths - a high V-neck sweater and a long-sleeve boat-neck top.

It is also possible to mix textures, combining the easy structure of the wool knit with fluid fabrics like silk or washable velvet. Knits are ideal for travel because they promote easy movement and don't wrinkle.

The fall season's wool crepe from Italy enables pieces to be interchanged.

The wool crepe is also great for year-round wear and is inherent to soft statements in dresses, jackets, pants and tops. On vests, dresses and double-faced wool jackets, the neckline is spare, chic and softly feminine.

Finally, Fisher offers a washable wool crepe in sweaters that is both sophisticated and conveniently machine-washable. She suggests combining the basic shell top, camisole, wrap top, turtleneck or high V-neck with the straight-leg pant or straight skirt.

With a range of simple silhouettes and fabrics for fall, Fisher is adamant about one thing: She believes that skirt lengths depend on each woman.

"I've never believed in dictating hemlines," Fisher says. "Instead, it's about what you feel most comfortable in. I always try to offer a range of skirt lengths so you'll have the option that's right for you. This fall, we're showing mid-thigh, which I especially like in our simple shift dresses; to-the-knee, which is modern and clean in a knit; and well-below-the-calf in fluid skirts and dresses, which I love because they're so feminine. They suggest the leg without actually exposing it."

But Fisher encourages women to focus on shapes emphasizing their best features. "If you have great legs, go ahead and wear a shorter skirt, or if you have a graceful neck, choose a little camisole to accentuate it."

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Most other major designers are emphasizing wool this year, too.

Calvin Klein is showing funnel necks on dresses or tops in felted stretch wool, as well as a black felted wool strapless dress. Donna Karan is showing a wool crepe boucle top that slips off both shoulders and is worn with relaxed wool menswear trousers. She also selectively reveals the body with the sheerness of silk tulle tops, layered chiffon dresses and wool crepe skirts slit high up the leg.

Todd Oldham is showing a black wool knit knee-length shirtdress with leopard collar, cuffs and strap across the bare back. Bill Blass gives the season's staple, the wool menswear suit, a whole new twist by shifting the pinstripes onto the diagonal and offering it in extraordinarily lightweight material.

According to the Wool Bureau in New York, some of the buzz words this year are menswear, black lace, flannel trousers, fur trim, velvet, spiked heels, chiffon ruffles, tuxedos, ankle straps and slits.

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