You can indulge yourself in a nostalgic package of classic old movies and songs at the Marquee, a clever theme restaurant. Though the multiple screens remain silent, glimpses of Don Ameche, Betty Grable, Bob Cummings and others evoke memories of the good old days in Hollywood. Even the soundtrack selections, like Barbra Streisand's "Happy Days Are Here Again" or Pat Boone's "April Love," set the tone.
Though the ambience takes us back, the snazzy decor shouts "The '90s," with cherry-finished seating and forest-green accents. Booths surround the dining space, while ice cream concoctions are served at an oversized bar.And ice cream indulgence is the best place to start, inspired by the marketing slogan of the Russell's supplier, "life is short, eat dessert first."
Some 15 sundae combinations, plus malts, shakes, splits and freezes accompany a host of old-fashion, soda-jerk drinks.
The everyday menu is compiled with a sense of old-fashioned dependability. The "main attractions" read like a voice from the past, but more than the ordinary descriptions, our sampling smacked of pre-packaged, even canned tastes. An over-sized platter supports pot roast ($10.99), normally a no-questions-asked order, but the chunks of pasty beef drowned in bland gravy went untouched beyond the first bite. A pleasantly colored serving of green beans looks inviting but quickly screams, "overcooked."
Four different entrees feature teriyaki items, so we tried the teriyaki chicken and sauteed shrimp combo ($14.99). A rubbery chicken breast boasts a strong charcoal taste, almost obliterating the light gloss of teriyaki. Four mini shrimp lacked any taste at all, despite resting in a butter/herb bath.
The menu extends to double features, more straightforward, simplified choices like chicken pot pie ($8.99) or pasta and meatballs ($7.99), as well as a collection of sandwiches or dinner salads.
Maybe we made the wrong choices, but we felt the food quality failed to justify the cost.
On the other hand, appetizers arrive crispy fried; a combo platter ($6.99) features button mushrooms, barely distinguishable in batter, but also chewy mozzarella sticks, crunchy onion rings and tender chicken strips, all representative of the other warm-up options.
Marquee Restaurant: 915 5 S. Redwood Road West Jordan, 569-3595; 6585 N. Landmark Dr., Kimball Junction (near the Hampton Inn), 435-615-8421 Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday, noon-11 p.m. Payment: All major credit cards **