The French Web site that sells artisanal cheese made from unpasteurized milk www.fromages.com has made it easier for buyers to choose their own cheeses. Previously, it was necessary to select from set packages -- for instance, Camembert, Selles-sur-Cher and Comte. Now click on the Epicurean Cheese Shop, and you can pick three or more cheeses to make up your own cheese board from 16 choices, including St.-Nectaire, Cantal, raw-milk Camembert, Epoisses and St.-Marcellin.

Federal regulations require that any cheese sold in this country must be made from pasteurized milk unless it has been aged at least 60 days. This site's cheeses are allowed in because they are shipped to individuals and are not for resale.A good selection of cheeses available in this country is at www.idealcheese.com, the Web site of Ideal Cheese Shop in New York on the Upper East Side. The shop sells a completely goat-milk gjetost, the chocolatey cheese that most people love or hate; orange-hued mimolette; and a good many others.