The backstage crew of "Les Miserables" wear T-shirts printed with this message -- "ALL OF THIS OVER A LOAF OF BREAD."
The French are obsessed with bread -- particularly the baguette. Even today, some French folks will walk miles to their favorite boulangerie (bread shop) three times a day in rain, wind and snow. And after that, they'll wait 20 minutes in line.It is said that once you've tasted a real French baguette, you'll know the reason for all the fuss. Historically, bread became a hot topic (no pun intended) when the king in Versailles raised the price of bread the working people had been purchasing. The hefty increase caused the people so much trouble trying to get food that at Versailles, an angry crowd killed a baker who was trying to sell his bread at the high price. The incident shocked the bread-raising royalty. They were amazed to see exactly how much bread meant to the people in Paris.
The baguette is the most popular and famous type of French bread. Its name comes from the French word for "rod" or "stick." The classic baguette is approximately 30" long and weighs 8 ounces. It's made from flour, water and yeast -- simple. Since there is no fat, the bread becomes stale very quickly, hence the two or even three daily trips to the baker. Local Parisians say a source of amusement is midday in rural France. Suddenly the roads and villages begin to empty and those a little late can be seen rushing home with baguettes under arms or on the backs of mopeds.
I've been unable to convince my editor to send me to Paris for baguette study. Instead, we visited a celebrated chef, Don Heidel, executive chef and graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute in Hyde Park, N.Y. Heidel recently joined Frank Granato Importing to establish an in-store bakery. The culinary expert has been working wonders with flour, sugar, yeast and water, baking hundreds of loaves daily. Sam Granato, owner of Granato Importing, had huge professional ovens brought in, enabling Heidel to make some of the best bread we've devoured. His bread is available at both Granato's outlets (1391 S. 3rd West and 4040 S. 27th East in Salt Lake City).
Granato's baguettes are so popular, customers phone the stores to "reserve" bread. Needless to say, Heidel is happy.
In the beginning, the bakery was putting out 15 baguettes a day; today, Heidel produces 60 or more, along with hundreds of other unique breads. Granato's in-store deli features Heidel's fresh-baked rolls to wrap around imported cheeses and meats.
Granato's baking operation is no-conveyor-belt deal. Heidel takes great care with the details that make a loaf that's authentic. Sourdough starters are carefully fed and stoked for future use; imported French proofing baskets mold specialty breads. The huge commercial ovens are hot from the wee hours through most of the day.
It's fun to observe people buying bread at Granato's. They wrap their arms around and cradle the loaves while waiting to pay the cashier. And on their way out the door, they seem to step jauntily -- headed home to "mange." Some baguette buyers don't make it out the door before they're overwhelmed by the yeasty bouquet.
Bread is beloved.
Now I understand . . .the French without bread would surely be "miserables."