Question: How about the recipe for the scrumptious cheese "cigar" from the Wine Spectator Restaurant at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Napa Valley, Calif.? -- Betty Vaughn, Kansas City, Mo.
Answer: Cheese is one of the most satisfying fast foods available as well as one of the most cherished comfort foods of all time. People respond to the appearance, aroma, texture, and flavor of cheese, and its great versatility is a boon to cooks.Appearance has to do with eye appeal, and while most folks enjoy soft or firm cheese, only the cheese educated reach for a moldy round. The aroma of cheese, mild to pungent, is directly related to its protein and fat contents and the starter or cultures that it contains. Texture ranges from soft to hard, and the higher the moisture and milk fat of a cheese, the smoother the "mouthfeel."
The length of time the cheese has been ripened or aged helps determine its flavor. At The Wine Spectator, guests barely warm chair seats before requesting "cigars."
But it's not chutzpah. "Cigars" refer to the restaurant's signature appetizer, crisp "cigars" of phyllo encasing herbed cheese filling. Coban salatasi, an adaption of a Turkish salad, similar to tomato salsa, accompanies the warm pastries.
PHYLLO-WRAPPED JACK CHEESE 'CIGARS'
Coban Salatasi:
1/2 pound (2-3) Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and chopped
1/2 medium cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded and chopped
1/2 bell pepper (red or green), stemmed, seeded and chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
2 red radishes, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon brandy (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint (or 1/2 teaspoon dried mint)
2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill (or 1/2 teaspoon dried dill)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/8 teaspoon (or less)
cayenne pepper
Pastries:
1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) grated California Monterey jack cheese
1/4 cup grated California Cotija cheese (or 1/4 cup crumbled California feta cheese)
1 tablespoon minced green onion
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint (or 1 teaspoon dried mint)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill (or 1 teaspoon dried dill)
2 tablespoons fine dry bread crumbs
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
12 sheets phyllo dough, thawed, and handled according to package instructions
1/2 cup melted butter
Prepare coban salatasi: in a medium size bowl, combine chopped tomatoes, cucumber, bell pepper, red onion, radishes, lemon juice, brandy (optional), parsley, mint, dill, salt, paprika and cayenne. Stir and toss gently to combine.
Cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes before serving. Yields 2 cups. Prepare cigar pastries: preheat oven to 350-degrees. Cover 1 baking sheet with foil and coat with nonstick cooking spray. In food processor fitted with metal blade, combine the Monterey Jack, Cotija, green onion, mint, dill, bread crumbs, egg, salt and pepper. Process until blended and smooth (about 20-30 seconds). Set aside. Place one sheet of phyllo dough on your work surface. Cut (or slice) to divide dough in half. Brush each piece of dough lightly with 1-2 teaspoons of melted butter. Scoop up 1 heaping tablespoon of herbed cheese, and roll it lightly between fingertips until elongated to about 2 inches. With the dough in front of you, place herbed cheese in the bottom center of each piece of dough. One at a time, fold the outside edges of each strip over the herbed cheese.
Then roll up the phyllo dough around the filling, thus making a small cigar. Repeat the process with the remaining phyllo and cheese mixture.Transfer cigars to baking sheet, leaving a little space between them.
Brush cigars lightly with remaining melted butter. Bake 8-10 minutes, or until golden brown. Arrange warm "cigars" on serving plate. Accompany with bowl of coban salatasi. Yields 12 cigars.
Diane Howard is a columnist for Hunt House Syndicate. America a la Carte welcomes recipe requests. Send the complete address of the restaurant along with your name, address and phone number to: America a la Carte, PO box 5994, Austin, TX 78763-5994; or fax 512-453-2145. E-mail: amercarte@aol.com.