If your garden is like most others, several one-cylinder gasoline engines power various pieces of equipment. Known as small engines, they provide the power for a wide variety of tools. Lawnmowers, string trimmers, edgers, shredders, leaf blowers and many other machines have these engines.
These machines are great labor-savers and represent a considerable financial investment. Like all assets, these pieces of equipment require protection and maintenance to keep them running well. Although he might seem an unusual source of help for gardeners, race car driver Bill Breedlove knows engines.When he is not racing cars, Breedlove spends his days as the small equipment vehicle technology instructor at Salt Lake Community College. His classroom and shop are filled with motorcycles, lawnmowers, tillers and other assorted equipment. Large rolling tool boxes at each station hold equipment to help train future mechanics.
Breedlove teaches the young and not so young how to keep things going. He has a real mix of students, from those just completing high school to those seeking a career change, to retirees looking to keep engines running. Since most readers will not likely take a class, Breedlove agreed to deliver a short class via this column on small engine care and keeping.
Engines rely on several interacting systems to run well. Fuel and electrical, lubrication and mechanical components must all interact together if the engine is going to run. "The most important factor in keeping the engine running well is proper storage," says Breedlove. "The biggest problem with storage is gasoline. You would think that since they run on gas there would be no problem with keeping the gas in them.
"Unfortunately, gasoline is made of many minerals and volatile compounds. When you dump it in the tank, the lighter compounds start evaporating. This leaves behind the heavier parts of the gas. This creates varnish and other materials that coat the metallic parts and plug the jets in the carburetor. Then when you try to start and run the engine next spring, nothing works.
"Compounding the problem is the fact that the blend and additives in the gasoline vary from summer to winter. The best you can hope for with gasoline is that it will be stable for two months. After that it causes problems."
There are two schools of thought on storing equipment and fuel. The first is to run all of the fuel out of the entire system. No fuel, no deposits. After the fuel is gone, coat the inside of the metal tank with a protective spray. The air cleaner is removed and additional spray goes into the carburetor to keep the metal from corroding.
"My own preference is to store the system with the fuel in place. This keeps all of the components 'wet.' That way the gaskets and seals do not dry out. That is important because when seals dry out they leak. Another advantage of storing the engines with the fuel in place is that a full tank prevents condensation. A partially full tank on a lawnmower or an automobile means there is air in the tank. The air contains moisture that condenses and rusts the metal and causes problems.
"Start the winterizing process by getting a fresh can of fuel. Buy one of the many different fuel stabilizers and mix it with the fuel in the can. If the fuel tank on the engine is nearly full, add the stabilizer to the tank. After the tank is full of stabilized fuel, run the engine for a short time to warm it up, then drain and replace the oil.
"One of the byproducts of combustion is sulfuric acid. There is always acid and moisture in oil that has been running in the machines. Drain it out and recycle it. New oil has neutralizers to keep the corrosive element from affecting the engine.
"Use a good quality detergent oil like you would use in a car. Most recommendations favor the multiviscosity type because they give better protection. I recommend 10-30 weight unless the dealer or the manual recommends something else.
"After changing the oil, refill the fuel tank right to the top. Remove the spark plug wire and hook it on the small notch in the metal. This grounds the plug and prevents accidentally starting the engine or an electrical shock. Spray the inside of the cylinder with protective spray. Replace the spark plug and put the equipment in storage.
"Next spring ground the plug wire, remove the plug and turn the engine over a few times to remove the lubricants and then start the engine.
"An unheated garage is an ideal location. Cool, dry locations are the best. If the temperature fluctuates a lot, you may get condensation on the machinery causing it to rust. Cool locations are also best for equipment with batteries. At 40 degrees, a battery will stay charged for up to 15 weeks. If stored in a warm furnace room at near 100 degrees, it will discharge in just a couple of weeks.
"Never store discharged batteries because they will freeze. This ruins the battery and often breaks the case. This makes a hazardous situation with the acid and it may severely damage your equipment.
"Protect your investment. Spend a few minutes this fall and your machines will be ready to start next spring. It is not hard or expensive, but it will save you a lot of grief, if you do it right."
Note: Fuel stabilizers and engine protectants are available under many brand names. Breedlove likes CRC Engine Stor' available for winterizing marine engines.