Noodle kugel. Matzo balls. Gefilte fish.

Three traditional Passover dishes.Many a deli serves them each day, but for Passover (Pesach), the manner in which these foods are prepared -- in accordance with Jewish tradition -- is key.

When the eight-day observance of Passover begins at sundown March 31, Jews will celebrate the re-emergence of springtime and the freedom gained when Moses led the Jews out of Egypt.

The word Passover refers to the Israelites who were protected from the Angel of Death, who claimed the first-born in other Egyptian houses as one of the plagues sent by God to convince Pharoah to free the Israelite slaves.

For more than 3,000 years, Jews have celebrated the event with friends and family.

During Passover, no leavened food or any item that comes in contact with leavened food is eaten. This includes most products made from wheat, barley, rye and oats. Also avoided are beans, lentils, maize, millet and mustard.

An important Passover food is the matzo, an unleavened cracker-like bread commemorating the freeing of Jews from slavery -- they fled in such haste they didn't have time for their bread to rise.

Matzo is sometimes used like flour in baked goods after being ground into powder (matzo meal). The meal can be formed into matzo balls, which are added to soup.

On the evening before Passover begins, the Jewish home is searched to rid it of all leaven. The entire dwelling is cleaned, especially the kitchen. Everyday dishes, utensils and cookware are put away and special dishes reserved only for Passover are brought out. If an extra set of dishes is not available, the regular utensils are scalded clean; or if metal, are passed through fire until red hot.

The first two nights of Passover are devoted to an elaborate dinner called the Seder. During this ritual, passages are read from the Haggaddah, a Passover book that recounts, among other historical lessons, the Jewish exodus from Egypt.

A Seder table is typically set with the best silver and china, candles, kosher wine and three large pieces of matzo. A Seder plate is placed in front of the father or head of the household.

On the plate is (1) z'roah -- a roasted shank bone representing the paschal sacrifice, (2) beitzah -- a roasted egg symbolizing the mourning for the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem, (3) marror -- bitter herbs (usually fresh horseradish or romaine lettuce) as a reminder of the bitter suffering under slavery, (4) haroset -- a mixture of chopped apples, nuts, cinnamon and wine representing the mortar used by the slaves to build Egyptian monuments, (5) karpas -- parsley, celery or lettuce that symbolize the meager diet in Egypt (dipped in salty water that is a reminder of tears shed), (6) a special ornamented cup for Elijah the prophet.

During the Seder, which is served in courses, Jews perform five mitzvos (obligations). The first is eating matzo, the second is drinking four cups of wine, the third is eating the marror, the fourth is the reading of the Haggaddah, and the fifth is reciting Psalms of praise.

The meal often includes chicken soup with matzo balls, gefilte fish and a roasted meat.

Writing for "Jewish Family and Life," Debora W. Antonoff notes that the Seder can create vivid memories for Jewish families and that the ritual meal helps children feel a part of their religion.

"Young children identify with their religious community through the concrete symbols and rituals parents introduce into their lives," Antonoff explains.

Antonoff is Jewish and her husband is Christian. Confused and unable to grasp the concept of Christianity and Judaism, their 3-year-old daughter categorized her world based on the symbols of her parents' two faiths.

The little girl described the world as divided between "tree kids" and "menorah kids."

The Seder, rich in symbolism, is a teaching tool for people of all faiths. It is customary for Jewish families to invite guests to the Seder. There, the text of the Hagaddah is shared -- with eternal themes of liberation from bondage, and the fight for justice.

The experience can cultivate a connection to Jewish history for "children" of all faiths.

CHICKEN SOUP WITH MATZO BALLS

For Soup:

1 chicken (3 to 3 1/2 pounds)

1 package chicken wings

Water to cover chicken (approximately 3/4 quart)

2 large stalks celery

4 large carrots -- cut into 3-inch sticks

3 sprigs parsley

2 sprigs fresh dill

Salt and pepper to taste

Wash chicken well. Place chicken and wings in a large soup of stock pot. Cover with cold water (should just cover top of chicken). Bring water to a boil, skimming off any foam that forms. Reduce to a medium simmer, add vegetables, salt and pepper. Cover partially and simmer for 2 hours.

For Matzo Balls:

2 large eggs

1/2 cup chicken soup

2 tablespoons oil

1 cup matzo meal

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Whisk eggs with the chicken soup and oil to blend. Add remaining ingredients. Add salt and pepper to taste. Mixture should be somewhat salty. Once boiled, the balls will be blander. Refrigerate mixture one hour. Fill a Dutch oven with water and 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a rolling boil. Scoop spoonfuls of matzo ball mixture and drop into boiling water. Cover pot and let dumplings simmer about 30 minutes. Gently remove matzo balls from water and drain. Place in chicken soup. Serve 1 or 2 matzo balls per bowl. Serves 8.

Each serving contains 395 calories, 16g fat, 40g protein, 19g carb, 501mg sodium, 117mg cholesterol. From Baker Boulanger "American deli favorites."

NOTE: This classic deli soup is also a proven cold remedy. The matzo balls are an added bonus.

HONEY-WALNUT CAKE

4 eggs, separated

1/2 cup honey

1/2 cup matzo cake meal

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts

1/2 teaspoon salt

Powdered sugar

Honey Whipped Cream (see following recipe)

Dried figs, sliced

Beat yolks until light; beat in honey until mixture is smooth and well-blended. Add matzo cake meal and vanilla; mix well. Add walnuts; mix thoroughly. Beat egg whites and salt until stiff peaks form. Lightly fold into yolk mixture. Line a 9-inch round cake pan with paper; spoon batter into pan. Bake at 325 degrees F. about 30 minutes or until browned and surface springs back when lightly touched. Cool on cake rack. Place a 9-inch doily on cooled cake; sprinkle generously with powdered sugar. Remove doily carefully. Serve with whipped cream; garnish with sliced dried figs. Serves 8.

For Honey Whipped Cream:

1 cup whipping cream

2 to 3 tablespoons honey

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Beat whipping cream with honey and vanilla extract until soft peaks form. Makes about 2 cups.

Each serving cake contains 150 calories, 4g protein, 3g fat, 28g carb, 162mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol. Each serving Honey Whipped Cream contains 491 calories, 11g fat, 1g protein, 102g carb, 18mg sodium, 41mg cholesterol. From National Honey Board, Blue Ribbon Figs and Diamond Walnuts.

NOTE: If serving the Honey Walnut Cake with Honey Whipped Cream, use the recipe only for "dairy" meals.

HONEY-LEMON FIGS

1 1/2 cups water

1/2 cup honey

1/2 cup lemon juice

1 strip (3 to 4 inches) lemon peel

1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger root

1 cup Calimyrna dried figs

1 cup Mission dried figs

Honey Whipped Cream (see recipe above)

Combine water, honey, lemon juice, peel and ginger in saucepan. Bring to a boil; simmer 5 minutes. Cut stems from figs and discard. Add figs to liquid. Simmer, covered, 20 minutes. Cool. Serve warm or chilled. If desired, serve with Honey Whipped Cream. Serves 8.

Each serving (without Honey Whipped Cream) contains 130 calories, 1g fat, 2g protein, 31gcarb, 6mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol. From National Honey Board, Blue Ribbon Figs and Diamond Walnuts.

MANDEL BREAD

2 cups sugar

1/2 pound unsalted margarine

6 eggs

2 3/4 cup matzo cake meal

6 ounces chocolate chips

1 cup chopped walnuts or almonds

3/4 cup potato starch

Mixture of cinnamon and sugar

Cream together sugar and butter. Add eggs one at a time, beating well. Sift dry ingredients and then fold into mixture. Add chocolate and nuts. Form into loaves. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Bake at 350 degrees F. for 35-40 minutes. Remove from oven and slice. Return again to oven and toast for 15 minutes at 350 degrees F. Makes 5-6 dozen.

Each serving contains 96 calories, 4g fat, 1g protein, 14g carb, 8mg sodium, trace of cholesterol. From Elaine Miller.

MATZO KUGEL

1 cup minced onion

1 cup finely diced celery

6 tablespoons chicken fat or margarine

6 matzos broken into small pieces

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

2 teaspoons paprika

2 eggs, slightly beaten

1 can condensed undiluted clear chicken soup

1/2 cup hot water

Saute onion and celery in fat or margarine until tender but not brown. Add broken matzo. In separate bowl, combine remaining ingredients and add to above mixture. Pour into a well-greased 1 1/2 quart casserole. Bake at 375 degrees F. for about 1 hour, or until firm. Serves 6-8.

Each serving contains 187 calories, 10g fat, 4g protein, 21g carb, 396mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol. From Rachelle Finkelstein.

JELLY ROLL

4 eggs, separated

3/4 cup sugar

1 cup cake flour (matzo or otherwise)

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 cup cold water

2 tablespoons butter or vegetable shortening

1 tablespoon flour (matzo or otherwise)

1 cup currant or grape jelly

2 tablespoons confectioner's sugar

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Beat egg yolks and sugar until thick and lemon-colored. Sift together flour and baking powder and stir in gradually, adding a few drops of water alternately until well combined and smooth. Beat egg whites stiff and fold in lightly. Coat the bottom of a cookie pan with butter or shortening and dust lightly with flour. Spread the batter evenly in the pan and bake in a preheated 375 degree F. oven for 10 to 15 minutes. While hot, loosen the edges of cake with a spatula and turn out on a double fold of heavy wax paper a few inches larger than the baking pan. Cut away the crust of cake from the narrow ends and quickly roll up from the long end. Wrap in the wax paper and twist edges together at both ends. When cool, spread lightly with jelly. Roll up quickly and dust with confectioner's sugar. Serves 8.

Variation 1: Chocolate Roll is made by adding 2 tablespoons cocoa to the dry ingredients before combining with egg mixture. Or, stir in 3 tablespoons chocolate syrup before folding in the egg whites.

Variation 2: Omit jelly filling. Spread with 1 cup heavy cream beaten stiff and flavored with 1/2 teaspoon vanilla or rum extract. Spread the cream evenly, reserving about 1/4 for topping rolled up cake. Chill 1 hour before serving. Whipped cream filling may be used with basic recipe or Variation 1. Cream-filled roll must be refrigerated if not served immediately.

Each serving Jelly Roll contains 227 calories, 3g fat, 4g protein, 50g carb, 156mg sodium, 8mg cholesterol. From Lynn Cohne.

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