I'm done with doughnuts. They're a good thing in this world, but enough is enough.
I'm intrigued by a new venture on Market Street that promises authentic French food. Sometimes when I review, I get the feeling it would take a few visits to get the whole picture. Au Bon Appetit is one such place.
But, like you, to try a new place, I have to start somewhere and hope the experience will invite a second visit. And you and I know it's not just the food that makes the difference. If you're on your lunch hour, say, and the meal takes you past that hour, there's no food precious enough that will get you back there unless you can afford to be gone longer next time.
If I were to visit Au Bon Appetit again (and I will), I would do it for dinner, when I had a little more time to spend.
Generally, spending time is a good thing. And I'll concede we should do more of it. The atmosphere at Au Bon Appetit is pleasant. It's roomy and light, decorated with French advertising prints and street signs.
The freshest bread is served from the start. Those prone to gobbling, beware: it's delicious. And the butter. Sure, it was in foil packets, but it was soft! I know I tend to make a big deal out of things like that, but to me, it makes a big difference. I only noticed because so many places in town choose to serve bricks. One should not need to be aware of a detail like that at all. But it was appreciated nonetheless.
My husband and I tried two specials, a grilled chicken with mustard cream sauce and the salt cod puree. Both were fantastic. We started with the onion soup and mesclun greens with warm goat cheese.
Served in a miniature pot, the soup was rich and featured the cheese-smothered crouton in an especially crackly and artfully sloppy presentation.
Greens were fresh and lightly dressed, but I didn't appreciate the patently American tomato wedges. They're out of season, and it showed. The crust-coated warmed goat cheese made up for it instantly, though.
I was impressed with the grilled chicken. It was as tender as could be. The mustard cream sauce was mild but a nice complement. Predominantly flavored by red and green bell pepper, the ratatouille was light but complex in flavor. Garnished with elegantly slender fries, this hearty plate was perfectly enjoyable for its presentation and portions.
The salt cod was intriguing. Picture three tender, lightly fried pillows of pureed fish arranged with alternating pools of the lightest-ever spinach cream sauce. A simple tomato-basil ratatouille finishes the plate. I recommend this Wednesday special for its interesting combination of salty and sweet tastes and fine balance of textures.
Dessert was odd. I hesitate to even comment. I tried a small tart called a blueberry princess. It was cold and dense but not in a good way. By dense, I mean rubbery, as if it weren't fresh. My husband's layered mousse dessert was similar. It featured a light flaky crust, a layer of vanilla mousse and a layer of chocolate mousse topped with chocolate shavings. It, too, had a rubbery texture, especially in the vanilla layer. I regret that dessert was a disappointment, since the rest of our lunch was so fine.
Despite this, I plan to continue with Au Bon Appetit. I'd like to try the quiche, the crepes and the fondue, as well as tempting appetizers featuring pate and escargots.
Prices for soups, salads and starters range from $3.95-$11.95; daily specials and entrees, $13.95-$16.95; crepes and sandwiches, $5.95-$8.95.
Au Bon Apetit Bistro and Patisserie
*** 1/2 (out of five)
Hours: Monday-Friday 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 7 a.m.-11 p.m.
Location: 18 W. Market Street, 519-9595
Payment: checks, major credit cards
E-MAIL: stephanie@desnews.com