A story started it all, which is fitting since Branson has all kinds of entertainment imbedded in its soul.

In 1907, Harold Bell Wright wrote a book called "The Shepherd of the Hills" about an elderly man who found refuge and peace in the Ozark Mountains of Missouri — and the place was never the same. The book sold millions of copies, and readers began journeying to the Ozarks to learn more about the country and lifestyle of the characters.

They found an area of rich, natural beauty, with hills and rivers that offered fishing and swimming. During the reclamation era, dams were built, creating lakes that offered more recreation possibilities. And soon people who came to play by day began looking for entertainment by night. Local families rose to the occasion, st arting some Ozark music jubilees that continue to the present.

In the early '90s, things really took off for Branson, which now bills itself as the "Live Entertainment Capital of the World." Stars from a variety of musical genres came, stayed, built their own theaters and began performing.

There are now more than 40 theaters, with a total of 59,000 seats — more than are found on Broadway — and a daily menu of about 80 shows to choose from.

Branson is a happening place almost year-round (January-March is considered the off-season). But it especially sparkles at Christmastime — the Christmas season for shows runs from the first of November to mid-December.

So much goes on in Branson at this time of year, in fact, that it's hard to keep track of it all. Here's just a teaser, spelled out sampler-style:

BRANSON, about an hour's drive south of Springfield, has a population of about 4,900, with a total of 60,000 in the surrounding two-county area. Yet it hosts about 7 million visitors a year — and does it while retaining its small-town values and flavor. The Ozark Mountain Christmas celebration, now in its 12th year (before that the season ended at Labor Day), has become one of the most popular times to visit the area, drawing close to 1.5 million visitors each year.

RECREATION, even at this time of year, is still an important draw. Although it may be too cold for swimming, the three lakes in the area still provide pleasure. For one thing, there's the Branson Belle, an old-fashioned, paddle-wheel showboat that sails on Table Rock Lake, offering breakfast, lunch and dinner shows. For another, there are the Ducks, amphibious military assault vehicles that give land/water tours of the area all from the same seat. And there are a number of theme/amusement parks, including Silver Dollar City, Shepherd of the Hills, White Water and Branson USA. Other activities include mini-golf, bumper cars, museums and helicopter rides.

ATMOSPHERE — for festive, sparkling, get-you-in-the-holiday-mood atmosphere — few places do it better. In all, including a number of drive-through light shows, Branson strings up 15 miles worth of Christmas lights; more than 5 million bulbs. Decorations abound.

NICE, not naughty, is the overriding theme of Branson, which makes much of its family atmosphere and family values. You won't find the sleazy, the risque, the four-letter words that many performers try to pass off as comedy. These are shows you can take your kids to — or take your grandparents to. In fact, about 25 percent of the visitors are senior citizens.

SHOWS, shopping, sumptuous meals — those who subscribe to the "feed me, entertain me, let me shop" philosophy of vacationing would be hard-pressed to do it better than here. Most of the major theaters offer two and three shows a day. Dining options include everything from mile-long buffets (one secret for handling the large bus crowds) to casual upscale eateries to fast-food outlets. (In all, Branson boasts of 30,000 restaurant seats.) As for shopping, Branson is home to three large factory outlet centers, with more than 200 stores. In addition, there are some distinctive mini-malls, craft emporiums and specialty retailers that offer everything from antiques to zebras.

OCCASIONS within occasions highlight the Christmas season. One of the most popular is the Veterans Homecoming, held the week of Veterans Day. Now in its sixth year, it has become the largest celebration for veterans in the country, drawing about 100,000 vets. Put Santa on hold temporarily while you stand up and cheer for the red, white and blue, with Tony Orlando. Just try to choke back a tear as he — or others — have vets from various wars and each branch of the service stand and be thanked.

NOSTALGIA is a big part of Branson's appeal. Swing music of the '30s and '40s, legendary country and cowboy music, the stars we used to watch on TV back when variety shows were standard fare — these are all a big part of the mix.

As for the holidays — the homespun element of an Ozark Christmas charms and enchants, whether it's the delectable aroma of cinnamon and evergreen that seems to float through the air or the work of various craftsmen that creates treasure reminiscent of bygone eras. Or the music. On stage, tradition reigns.

Many of Branson's favorite entertainers offer seasonal spectaculars, including:

COUNTRY TONITE. Country music is a big part of Branson, and this show combines contemporary country with traditional cowboy songs and rousing dance numbers. The high energy level will keep your toes tapping and your hands clapping even on the Christmas songs.

HERKIMER, an Ozark hillbilly, adds a comedic touch to the Presleys' Country Jubilee, one of the oldest shows in Branson. "We're fortunate to be able to do what we do," said Steve Presley, who has been with the show for 34 years. "I don't know anyone who has more fun in Branson." The Presleys started out performing in an underground cavern — it was nice and cool in the summer — and came above ground in 1967, when they built their first theater. They, and the Mabe Family who do the Baldknobbers Jamboree, are Branson's longest-running performers.

The show features 21 entertainers, seven of whom are members of the Presley (no relation to Elvis) family. "The on-stage family involvement is at the heart of Branson's success; it's one thing that makes us different from everywhere else," says Steve.

ROCKETTES from New York's Radio City Music Hall bring their Christmas Spectacular to Branson each year, one of five locations outside New York where the show can be seen. The show features a large cast of singers and dancers, colorful costumes, elaborate sets and live animals. Included are "The Parade of the Wooden Soldiers" and the "Living Nativity," which have been performed at Radio City Music Hall since 1933.

Audrie Chernauckas, from Michigan, and Jennifer Schwerer, from Virginia, are two of 200 Rockettes who do the shows. "It's an honor to be part of such an elite group of dancers," said Jennifer, who saw the group in the Macy's parade when she was 5 and wanted to be part of it ever since. Audrie, who has been dancing since she was 3, quit law school to join the troupe. "Law school will always be there, but you can only dance so long." It's a lot of fun — and a lot of work, she says. "The 'Christmas in New York' number alone has 154 high leg kicks."

INTERNATIONAL FLAVOR: Shoji Tabuchi, a country fiddler from Japan, is one of the most popular performers in Branson. His show gets high marks for production values, with full orchestra and chorus, lavish decorations and special effects. Shoji and his daughter Christina offer a variety of musical styles, including country, Cajun, bluegrass, Mozart and, of course, Christmas. (And check out the rest-rooms in his theater — oh wow!)

Yakov Smirnoff, the Russian immigrant, also packs in the crowds with his hilarious and insightful jokes and vignettes. "What a Country!"

SILVER DOLLAR CITY does Christmas well. This theme park based around an old mining town strings up 3 million lights; has a five-story, special-effects Christmas tree; re-creates the Little Town of Bethlehem; offers almost continuous musical entertainment, including the lively "Christmas in the Ozarks;" gives demonstrations of old-time crafts; and serves up favorite foods as well as holiday fare. There are also amusement park rides and tours of the underground Marvel Cave. You could easily spend a day just here — and still not see it all.

THE UTAH CONNECTION is alive and well in Branson. The Osmond Brothers — Wayne, Merrill, Jay and Jimmy — have built a theater here. Their dinner shows combine ice skating, magic, comedy and the hit songs from their 40 years in the business.

But also bringing credit to the Beehive State are members of the talented Dutton family, who sing, fiddle and pick their way through a lively show; the Hughes Brothers, who have been praised for their talent, energy and emotional impact; and the Lowe Family of Utah, who serve up a blend of classical, Broadway, patriotic, bluegrass, old-time melodies, six-part harmony, gospel and dance.

MEL TILLIS gets some help from his superstar daughter, Pam, for his Christmas show (she appears only at selected times throughout the rest of the year). The first half of the show is laden with country hits, while the second is devoted to Christmas.

ANDY WILLIAMS has still got it. Although the 70-something entertainer has scaled back, now doing only fall and Christmas shows (the rest of the year his Moon River Theater is leased to other acts), his Christmas show has all the tradition, grace and style that earned him the title "Mr. Christmas."

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SO MUCH MORE. Jim Stafford, the Lawrence Welk show with the Lennon Sisters and Jo Ann Castle and others, the Lennon Brothers (a great '40s swing show), Jennifer, the Baldknobbers Jamboree, the Dixie Stampede, 76 Music Hall, '50s At the Hop, The Shepherd of the Hills pageant. And even that isn't a complete list.

What you don't find in Branson are any frowns, any grumpiness, any disharmony at all. The town bills itself as a happy, feel-good place, and that's exactly what it is. You'd have to work awfully hard to go to Branson and not have a good time — especially at this time of year.


Carma Wadley visited Branson as a guest of the Branson Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce and Convention & Visitors Bureau.

For more information about Branson shows, tours, accommodations and attractions, call 1-800-214-3361, or visit the Web: www.explorebranson.com

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