OK, so fat makes food taste good. That's too bad for most of us, so we search for substitutes. They aren't in the newly minted fake fat but in the spice rack. If the tasty, aromatic powders could mask not-quite-fresh meats long ago, they can add zip to meat and poultry fresh from the butcher and sheared of fat.

Herbs, fresh and dried, are indispensable, too. To keep your family from straying from healthful food, stock your spice drawer.Authentic Indian food, or recipes based on it, is one of the ethnic cuisines that is high on the taste charts. Serve Spiced Turkey Kebabs with boiled rice and broiled fruit.

SPICED TURKEY KEBABS

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon turmeric

1/2 to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon peanut or canola oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

2 tablespoons minced onion

1 1/3 pounds boneless, skinless turkey breast, cut in 1 1/2-inch chunks

In a small skillet over medium heat, combine cumin, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes until fragrant. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Measure 2 teaspoons (or more, to taste) of the mixture into a medium size bowl and reserve the rest for another use. Add the oil, garlic, ginger and onion to the spice mix. Whisk to blend. Add the turkey chunks and toss well to coat. (The turkey can be set aside in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours at this point.

Preheat broiler or grill. Thread the turkey chunks loosely on skewers. Broil or grill 4 inches from the heat for about 4 minutes. Turn, and cook about 4 minutes more, or until turkey is cooked through but not dry.

Serve immediately with rice and Broiled Fruit Skewers (recipe follows).

Note: Store extra spice mixture in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for later use with chicken, duck, lamb and pork. It should keep for up to 6 months. Makes 4 servings.

Nutritional information per serving: 178 calories, 26 g pro, 2 g carbo, 7 g fat, 58 mg chol, 297 mg sodium, 0 g fiber.

BROILED FRUIT SKEWERS

1 firm apple such as Granny Smith

1 firm, ripe pear

or

fresh pineapple chunks

or

1 cup firm ripe peaches or nectarines

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1 cup ripe plums

Fresh basil, mint or tarragon leaves, chopped (optional)

Peel and core the fruit and cut it into 1- to 1 1/2-inch chunks. Preheat the broiler and thread the fruits loosely on skewers. Broil for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until tender. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

Garnish with chopped basil, mint or tarragon, if desired.

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