During the 1980s, it was almost impossible to read the health-and-beauty secrets of the rich and famous without learning that they had "cut back on red meat."
The beef industry in that decade sagged under concerns about cholesterol, meat safety, low-fat weight loss plans and pocketbook considerations that made T-bone steak and filet mignon luxuries for many.But that has been changing, and last year the beef industry experienced the first increase in purchase and consumption in a long time.
Demand for beef was up about 4 percent last year compared with 1998, according to Chuck Lambert, chief economist for the National Cattlemen's Beef Association. "We've seen the rate of decline slow during the 1990s, but this was actually the first year of increase."
Lambert credits several factors for the change: the robust economy that lets consumers buy more expensive protein sources at the grocery store and in restaurants, increased consumer confidence about the safety of beef, and the popularity of high protein diets that emphasize eating meat.
"The reduction in consumer concerns about meat and protein in a balanced diet has shifted rather markedly since the 1980s," Lambert said.
Also helpful, he said, is the industry's efforts to create and market new types of convenient products designed with busy customers in mind.
Locally, Smith's Food & Drug Centers has experienced an increase in beef sales in 1999, compared with 1998 -- and particularly when compared with previous years.
"It's been quite a while since we've seen an uphill climb in beef sales, but we are now," said Marsha Gilford, spokeswoman for Smith's.
Beef never got too far from dinner tables in Utah. "Beef is still the anchor of the meat department. We believe that sales are high today due to a program called the Beef-Made-Easy program done in conjunction with the Beef Council. On packages of meat and various roasts are complete cooking instructions, so newer cooks may find that this builds their confidence in preparing a beef roast."
Gilford also names convenience as another factor in the higher beef sales. Many new products, such as already cooked barbecued ribs and barbecued sliced beef, are attracting busy customers.
As for the raw, fix-it-yourself meats, there also are new time-saving and convenient alternatives to making everything from scratch. An example is a specialty item that many customers enjoy: a flavorful Italian rolled roast filled with vegetables and herbs and tied with string. "When you slice it, you have the herbs and vegetables cooked into the meat."
Gilford also said meat section managers suggested Americans are experiencing "chicken burnout" as another possible factor in the upsurge in beef sales.
Brian Sansoni, senior manager for public policy communications for the Grocery Manufacturers of America, said consumer spending on beef shot up 5 percent last year to more than $49 billion. Steak houses have enjoyed a 73 percent increase in patronage the past five years, Sansoni said.
"The beef industry has done a great job of marketing its product, stressing convenience and speed. You've probably seen some ads over the past year that talked about putting more table-ready, heat-and-serve products on the table," Sansoni said.
"So many consumers are time starved," he said. Heat-and-serve beef products that taste good appeal to busy parents -- and also get eaten by the kids.
Brent Tanner, executive vice president of the Utah Cattlemen's Association, said things are looking better for them.
"Last year was slightly better for ranchers. We're not cheering too loudly so far because we've gone through some rough years and we're gaining back some ground. We are seeing an upswing in cattle prices and their profitability.," he said.
Between 6,000 and 7,000 people own cattle in Utah, but there is no statistical breakdown as to how many rely on cattle sales for their sole source of income.