They come from the same plant, only baby artichokes grow way down among the shady fronds where they're protected from the sun's toughening rays. They don't grow as big as their artichoke cousins who bask in the sun, but, oh, are they tender and delicious.

Baby artichokes are available year 'round, but you can find them in greater supply now through May. If you don't see them on your grocer's shelf, make a scene in the produce department.

OK, ask nicely . . . it's worth the effort.

We bought a couple of trays of babies at the source for everything culinary — Liberty Heights Fresh (1100 East and 1200 South) — and have been experimenting with the edible emeralds, from boiling and dipping to grilling and broiling. With their excellent nutty flavor and meaty texture, they're a unique change from the usual veggie lineup.

We've been craving baby artichokes ever since a recent San Francisco trip where we dined at Francis Ford Coppola's Cafe Niebaum-Coppola. While basking in shades of Napa-fied Hollywood, we ordered the house specialty — Pizza Capricciosa — a rustic pie delicately topped with fresh mushrooms, grilled artichokes, ham and black olives.

The baby artichokes that covered the pie, the chef revealed, had been marinated in olive oil and balsamic vinegar after grilling. Talk about flavor!

So, naturally, we attempted to duplicate the Mediterranean masterpiece back home on the range, and you know what? It worked! Well, just about. Lacking were the bay and the gray. So for inspiration, we popped "The Godfather" into the VCR and chewed on orange rinds while we tossed the dough.

You've gotta LIVE the dish you're doing . . . you know?

Now — what to do with with the babies . . .

Tend them well. (A relative of the thistle family, artichokes are the unopened flower of the plant. If left unopened, artichokes would turn into large, purple, thistlelike blossoms).

It takes just a few quick steps to get the kids ready for the pot and the plate. Because the artichokes are young and tender you can eat 'em leaves and all. No need to worry about the choke — that fuzzy center you have to remove from big artichokes — it's almost nonexistent in babies.

Baby artichokes are usually sold loose or in plastic trays. Choose artichokes that are firm and heavy for their size. Select those that are consistent in size — that way they'll cook more evenly. It takes three or four per serving.

Baby artichokes require no more effort to prepare than, say, mashed potatoes — you simply peel away their outer leaves and snip their stems and tips prior to cooking. The only special demand is for cut pieces to be immersed in a mixture of lemon juice and water to prevent discoloration. Likewise, avoid cooking the veggies in cast iron or aluminum, since these materials will cause the artichokes to blacken.

Boil

Add whole artichokes to enough boiling water to cover bottom of pan. Cover tightly and boil 10 to 15 minutes or just until tender.

Steam

Set steamer rack in bottom of pan and add enough water to come up to bottom of rack. Arrange artichokes on rack. Cover tightly. Heat until water boils, then reduce heat slightly and simmer 10 to 15 minutes or just until tender.

Microwave

Arrange artichokes in microwaveable bowl. Add enough water to cover bottom of bowl. Cover bowl with plate or plastic wrap and microwave on high just until tender, about 6 minutes. Cooking time will vary with size of artichokes and power of your microwave oven.

Grill

Boil, steam, or microwave artichokes as above but for about 2 minutes less than instructed. Drain well. Dip in olive oil, or brush with olive oil. Arrange on grill, or in grill basket, and cook over hot coals, turning once, until nicely browned and just tender, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Roast

Boil, steam or microwave artichokes as above but for about 2 minutes less than instructed. Drain well. Dip in olive oil or brush with olive oil. Arrange in baking pan. Bake in preheated 425 degree F. oven until nicely browned and just tender, about 5 minutes.

Deep-fry

Boil, steam, or microwave artichokes as above. Drain well and pat dry. Leave artichokes whole, if very small, or cut in halves or quarters. Dip in prepared batter* (recipe follows) and fry in hot oil (375 degrees F) until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes.


MARINATED ARTICHOKES

24 baby artichokes, trimmed, keep whole

2 cups white vinegar

3 quarts water

3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup wine vinegar

1 cup salad or olive oil

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

3 tablespoons minced parsley

Bring water, white vinegar, garlic, salt to a rolling boil. Stir in artichokes. Continue stirring for one minute. Cover and boil for 12 to 15 minutes or until tender. Drain and let cool. Cut artichokes into halves or quarters, depending on size. If there are any purple leaves, snip off.

Mix together wine vinegar, oil, garlic powder and parsley. Add artichokes. Stir, cover and refrigerate. Better on the second day. Will keep for several weeks in the fridge, if stirred occasionally. Serves 4 (6 each).

Each serving contains 501calories, 54g fat, 1g protein, 10g carb, 535mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol. From Oceanmist


FRENCH-FRIED BABY ARTICHOKES

12-15 baby artichokes, trimmed and halved

1 egg

1/2 cup milk

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 cup flour

1/2 cup Bisquick

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 cup minced onion

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Oil for frying

Salt

In a small bowl, beat egg and milk well. Beat in the salt, garlic powder, flour, Bisquick and baking powder until well-blended. Stir in parsley and onion. Dip artichoke pieces to thinly coat. If batter seems a bit thin, add a little flour. Heat oil to 350 degrees F. Depth should be about 2 inches. Fry artichokes, a few at a time until golden brown, about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Serves 4.

Each serving contains 185 calories, 8g fat, 4g protein, 24g carb, 816mg sodium, 2g cholesterol. From Oceanmist


ARTICHOKES, PEA PODS AND BLACK MUSHROOMS STIR-FRY

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

12-16 baby artichokes, trimmed to completely edible stage — do not halve

1 cup fresh pea pods — or thawed frozen

1/4 cup dried black mushrooms, rehydrated in hot water, drained and sliced

1/4 cup chicken broth

1 teaspoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1/2 teaspoon minced ginger root

Salt to taste

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Cook artichokes in boiling salted water about 5 minutes or until just tender with a hint of crunch. Drain and cool — halve artichokes.

Add oil to hot skillet; stir-fry artichokes, pea pods and mushrooms 1 minute. Add chicken broth and simmer, covered, about 1 minute or until vegetables are tender.

Combine cornstarch with sherry, soy sauce and ginger root. Add to vegetables. Cook and stir until clear. Serves 6.

Each serving contains 50 calories, 5g fat, 1g protein, 2g carb, 407mg sodium, 1mg cholesterol. From Oceanmist

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