Salt Lake people, arise and rejoice! We may now enjoy the same cultishly delicious modern-Mex that St. George and Utah County residents have been enjoying for a while now. I'm talking about Cafe Rio in the Fort Union area.
I'd heard rumors of lines out the door and addictive combinations. I'd heard from friends surprised at finding honest, good food in a strip mall. Was it true that everything would be made fresh right in front of me for little more than I'd spend at Taco Bell?I'd also heard it was a quirky sort of place, with generous portions served in those foil take-out containers and that you couldn't see the menu until right before you ordered.
Now, I'm not always "Janey-on-the-spot," the first to hear of everything that's new in town, but when there's a buzz, I want to know.
Cafe Rio is a delightful surprise, and a crowded one, too. The line I stood in wrapped around the perimeter of the place, yet still moved at a swift pace. There are lots of tables, but you may have to "hover" a bit to stake out a spot in the crowded room.
I can't explain the no-menu thing. It's as if these folks didn't really anticipate a crowd. My advice is to get a takeout menu from the cash register first and then get in line. Of course, the way the lunchers were rattling off their orders, it was apparent that after only a few months, Cafe Rio has attracted a preponderance of regulars. Don't be intimidated, though, just listen in and take your cues.
I learned that "smothered" is the only way to order their giant burritos. They'll offer you black or pinto beans, but you can have half-and-half. In fact, it's pretty easy to customize a lot of the details because you watch them make your food on your way to the cash register.
I had the fajita-style chicken burrito. My husband had two different enchiladas: the Santa Fe pork chile verde and the smoked chicken tomatillo.
We loved everything we ate. The most intriguing flavor was the Santa Fe pork in that it was sweet. We liked it because it was so well-complemented by other savory flavors and an excellent fresh corn tortilla. We appreciated that each menu choice is a recipe by itself. They don't just switch out the meat in the same tortilla/sauce combination.
Cafe Rio tends to stress the flavors of its sauces and the use of fresh seasonings. All the meats were tender, beans and rice were of high quality, not canned.
The guacamole is a little different: It's rich with the fresh kick of onions, peppers and cilantro, but it also has shredded lettuce and chopped tomato. I didn't "get it" but still gobbled freely.
I can see why the tortilla soup is famous. The broth is rich with a smooth tortilla texture, and it's chunky with roasted chicken and vegetables.
My only regret is that I couldn't try everything. Friends highly recommended the salads and the two signature Cafe Rio dressings: creamy tomatillo and cilantro-lime vinaigrette. No worries, though, this place is a keeper and I'll be back.
I seem to recall some other place in town calling themselves fresh-Mex, but it seems to me you only get to use a self-proclaimed title like that if it's true. Take my word, the slogan should be Cafe Rio's.
Most menu items $4.95-$6.95.
Cafe Rio
**** (out of five)
Location: 6985 South Park Centre Drive (next to Super Target),
562-4431
Hours: Monday -Thursday 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Payment: major credit cards
Stephanie Tanner-Brown may be reached by e-mail at stephanie@desnews.com