It's the ultimate culinary oxymoron — gourmet institutional food.

But that's exactly what's being served at The Point Restaurant and Reception Center, the top floor dining room of the Huntsman Cancer Institute at the University of Utah.

Initially conceived as a facility to serve medical researchers and staff of the institute (which was established with a $100 million donation by Jon and Karen Huntsman), the restaurant has become one of the city's popular dining spots. For breakfast and lunch, from across campus or across town, an average of 600 people are being served each day.

Brandon Howard, manager of the Huntsman Division of Gastronomy Inc., says the food concept at The Point is "based on simplicity."

"Fresh products from local purveyors prepared with personalized attention are delivered to patrons at break-even cost," he notes. He calls the concept "quick service gourmet." The restaurant is not a "for profit" organization but in existence for the benefit of others — true to the Huntsman philosophy of serving society.

Calling the space a cafeteria would almost be blasphemous — the food is so well-prepared and executed. But technically, that's what is going on at The Point. Elevators whisk patrons to the sixth floor, where they step out to warm wood tones and inviting open spaces that give the area a relaxed feel. You'll get the best view ever of Salt Lake City on a clear day. Heck! Even on a cloudy day!

As you enter the restaurant, you're met with a dominant display of desserts. You're entering the area where a Wolfgang Puck-inspired cooking island houses six cooks who simultaneously prepare special orders. Two specially designed kitchens — one for food preparation and the other for heating and holding — are adjacent. A total staff of 18, under the direction of Howard, operate the 285-seat facility.

While moving through the self-serve area, one might rub elbows with doctors, lawyers, professors, students or perhaps family members from nearby University Hospital, Moran Eye Clinic or Primary Children's Medical Center. The public is welcome.

What brings these diverse diners to The Point are the fine food and bargain prices. Luncheon selections include gourmet salads, fresh fish, Oriental and Southwestern plates, a daily carvery, deli sandwiches, burgers, soup and those delectable desserts. Small refrigerated cases display Haagen Dazs delights. All menu items are prepared and served fresh, with an average lunch bill under $6.50.

Typical examples of lunch fare are Vegetable Lo Mein ($2.99), Marinated Portobello Sandwich ($3.49), and the Southwestern plate with chicken fajita, Spanish rice and refried beans ($4.69). At breakfast, eggs to order, biscuits, pancakes, french toast, breakfast meats and side dishes range from 99 cents to $4.29.

The Point, in keeping with the healthy-lifestyle philosophy of the Huntsman Cancer Institute, frequently serves low-cholesterol, low-fat buffalo chili, roasts and shanks raised on the Medicine Lodge Buffalo Ranch in Dubois, Idaho, by orthopedic surgeon Dr. Marlow Goble.

The view from the top of the 225,000-square-foot institute is a spectacular backdrop for wedding receptions, parties and corporate events (held there on weekends and evenings).

The Huntsman Cancer Institute is the partial fulfillment of John Huntsman's dream of pioneering pathways in cancer research and improving methods in the treatment of cancer. As chairman and CEO of Huntsman Corp., the world's largest privately held chemical company, Huntsman has pledged to give the bulk of his personal fortune to the relief of human suffering.

Thanks to Jon and Karen Huntsman. . .

We get The Point.


VEGETABLE LO MEIN

1 pound yakisoba noodles

2 carrots, sliced

6 shiitake mushrooms, sliced

1/2 yellow onion, sliced

1 can water chestnuts

1 small zucchini sliced and peeled

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

1 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 cup bean sprouts

Green onion for garnish

Boil soba noodles until done; set aside.

In a saucepan, saute carrots, onion, mushrooms and zucchini. Add water chestnuts, toasted sesame seeds and bean sprouts.

Pour in soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil and red chilies. Toss with soba noodles. Garnish with green onion. Serves 6.

Variations: Add grilled chicken breast or cooked sliced beef.

Each serving contains 373 calories, 15g protein, 4g fat, 71g carb, 2773mg sodium, 72mg cholesterol.

From Chef Chef Brandon Howard, The Point


HOT AND SOUR SOUP

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 tablespoons julienned onion

1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes

5 cups chicken or turkey stock

8 ounces (1 can) bamboo shoots

10 ounces diced firm silken tofu

4 large shiitake mushrooms

1/4 head napa cabbage, shredded

3 tablespoons white vinegar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 bunch green onion

Combine garlic, mushrooms, onion and red pepper with sesame oil in a sauce pot. Simmer over medium heat until the onion is translucent.

Add chicken or turkey stock and bring to a boil.

Add napa cabbage and silken tofu.

Combine vinegar and cornstarch and mix until the cornstarch is incorporated. Add to soup. Thicken to desired consistency.

Garnish with fresh chopped scallions. Serves 8.

Variations: Add 8 ounces rock shrimp and 2 tablespoons coconut milk for a Thai-style soup.

Each serving contains 65 calories, 5g protein, 3g fat, 6 carb, 489mg sodium, 1mg cholesterol.

From Chef Brandon Howard, The Point


HONEY GINGER PLUM PIE

For Crust:

3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 cup whole wheat flour

1/4 cup brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter cut into pieces

1 egg

1/4 cup skim milk

2 tablespoons applesauce

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon allspice

For topping:

4 cups pitted and sliced fresh red plums

1 tablespoon butter

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/3 cup honey

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 cup lemon zest

To make crust:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Sift flours, sugar, baking powder, salt and allspice into a large mixing bowl.

Blend in butter until crumb-like.

Place egg, milk, applesauce and vanilla into a separate bowl. Beat until combined.

Add the egg mixture to the dough mixture and combine until moist.

Spray a 9-by-13-inch baking pan (or cookie sheet with sides) with nonstick coating. Pour the batter into the pan and set aside.

To make topping:

In a small saucepan melt the butter. Add cinnamon, ginger, lemon zest and honey. Spread out the plums evenly on the batter.

Pour the honey zest mixture over the plums.

Bake in the preheated over for 25 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature. Cut into 3-by-3-inch squares. Serves 8.

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Variation: Add vanilla bean ice cream to garnish.

Each serving contains 264 calories, 4g protein, 5g fat, 55g carb, 199mg sodium, 12mg cholesterol.

From Chef Brandon Howard, The Point


You can reach Jean Williams by e-mail at jeanw@desnews.com

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