Question: My butcher block kitchen table is 1 3/4 inches thick and 38 inches in diameter. The varnished surface is badly pitted and some of the polyurethane varnish has peeled. Can I refinish it myself? The pros want big bucks to refinish. — David Marlin, Mashpee, Mass.
Answer: As an apprentice, a tyro and a little lamb in the big, bad wolf pack called furniture refinishing, you picked the easiest project, one that is almost fail-safe. Or, if you like, foolproof.
Why? Because the old finish is easily removed, the surface is relatively small, the rest of the table probably does not need refinishing, and you have a choice of two finishes. One word of caution: If you are doing the top, be sure to do the edges as well. Other parts such as legs and pedestals probably do not need finishing. So, here is how:
1. Sand off the old finish, to the bare wood. Use an orbital sander, with coarse paper first, medium second and fine third. If the pits are deep (say, 1/8 inch and deeper) do not try to sand them out; you will end up with a wavy surface. Sand across them; when you finish, they will remain as distress marks, but will give the table extra character. Distress marks are often painted on new furniture to give it an aged look.
If the table was stained (with a wood stain, not the other kind), sanding is a must. If there is no stain, you can use chemical paint remover to remove the varnish, but this is not necessary.
2. With bare wood showing, nice and smooth, wipe off sand dust with paint thinner, then a tack cloth (a sticky cloth sold in hardware and paint stores) to remove every trace of dust.
3. Apply two or three coats of an oil-based semigloss polyurethane varnish. Thin coats are essential. So is a high-quality (expensive) brush designed for varnish. Your first project will be fair. Your 35th project will be super.
Some specialists recommend using a water-based polyurethane varnish. I do not; it becomes cloudy too easily, usually if too thick a coat is applied. As you might guess, I got stung once with cloudy water-based varnish. It was my own fault, but once stung, twice shy.
3a. Avoid the polyurethane controversy entirely by applying oil. You will get a semigloss, soft, handsome finish, and it will be very smooth. It also will be hard to keep clean.
There are three kinds of oil: mineral, Danish and tung oil; the latter two have additives and dryers, and provide a harder surface. All are applied the same way: apply liberally, let it sit for 15 minutes, then wipe it all off, or as much as will come off, with a dry cloth. Then rub with your hands. Several coats are needed, and a new coat can be added at any time. Dispose of oily cloths safely by burning them. Left around, they can spontaneously catch fire.
With all that behind you, go for it!
Question: The well water in my 1997 house has a pH of 6.8, slightly acid but enough to create greenish rings in the toilet. I wonder if the acid will not eat into the copper pipes before long. I tried Lime-Away without success. It takes a lot of tedious rubbing. Anything better to use? — Malcolm Johnston, South Dartmouth, Mass.
Answer: Probably the best way to go is to rub with a pumice block, which is easier to use than powdered pumice or other abrasives. It is sold in hardware and paint stores.
But one thing to try is this: Make a paste of hydrogen peroxide and cream of tartar, and rub this on the stain; leave it a while, then rub some more; this formula will make the rubbing easier.
As for the acid water, you could try a filter, or possibly a neutralizer, but I would avoid a water softener that uses a lot of salt because the salt is difficult to dispose of. Or, sit tight; if the copper pipes ever go, replace them with plastic.
Question: I like the claw-foot tub in my 1923 house, and I have a full-loop curtain rod. But I cannot find a one-piece curtain for the tub. Piecing two or more curtains together will not work because they cannot be overlapped. Where can I get a one-piece curtain wide enough to go all the way around? — Elizabeth Woods, Wilmington, Mass.
Answer: It almost beat the heck out of the handyman until we checked out the huge catalog of Watertown Supply, New England's premier plumbing and heating parts headquarters, sent to us by Bill Tragakis, president of the company. And there we found shower curtains up to 6 feet high and 9 feet long. This may not be big enough for a full-loop rod, but the company has special sizes and styles available. The choices of material are vinyl and white cotton duck, not very glamorous, but it can work. So, Elizabeth Woods, call 1-800-323-3233 and see what you can find.
Next best thing is to buy a lot of white duck or good curtain material and make that super-long one.
Does anyone know where else extra-long curtains can be found?
E-mail: p_hotton@globe.com
Call in your questions to 617-929-2930. Handyman on Call Peter Hotton is available from 1 to 6 p.m. on Tuesdays to answer telephone questions on house repair. Hotton will chat online about house matters from 2 to 3 p.m. on Thursdays. To participate, point your Internet browser to www.boston.com and use the keyword, chat. Hotton's e-mail: P_hotton@globe.com.