SAN FRANCISCO — A bowlful of spring graces the cover of "Sublime Vegetarian," author Bill Jones' newest vegefesto — Spinach Fettuccine with Roasted Spring Vegetables and Morel Ragout, the beautifully photographed embodiment of Bill's message.
With a virtual deluge of vegetarian cookbooks being published every year, "Sublime Vegetarian" sets itself apart from the pack by blending classical techniques with multicultural fusion. Add to that an abundance of practical information and original recipes.
Jones dedicates his book to farmers, gardeners and other stewards of the land. His easy-to-follow recipes and notes feature a cornucopia of produce, simply prepared, making the respect he shows these products another inferred dedication.
The book's first 25 pages are a primer on cooking techniques, specialty ingredients, wine pairing and assembling a well-stocked pantry. The rest of the book is filled with delightfully diverse recipes like Caramelized Onion and Garlic Hummus with Pan-Fried Pita; Braised Shiitake Mushroom Sushi; and Chilled Peach, Honey and Champagne Soup.
Even substituting a cake pan for the requisite springform pan, the recipe for Corn, Shiitake and Goat Cheese Quiche with Savory Rice Crust was a success. The earthy shiitakes play nicely off the sweet corn, and the goat cheese gives the custard a lightness that contrasts with the dense, savory crust.
My biggest beef with the book, pardon the pun, was the dearth of tofu recipes. Vegetarians are always on the lookout for new ways to prepare it, and this supplies very few. However, Jones makes up for it by giving pointers on wine pairing.
"Today, the convenience of the supermarket and the constant influence of the advertising world have led us away from the simple, whole foods of our ancestors, towards increasingly processed and engineered foods," Jones writes in his introduction. Amen to that, brother! This philosophy sets the tone for a thought-provoking, inspirational and informative cookbook.
"Sublime Vegetarian," by Bill Jones (Douglas & McIntyre; 164 pages, paperback; $14.95).
CORN, SHIITAKE MUSHROOM & GOAT CHEESE QUICHE WITH SAVORY RICE CRUST
Savory Rice Crust:
2 cups cooked short-grain rice
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 egg, beaten
Salt and pepper to taste
Filling:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 cup onions, diced
2 cups shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
1 tablespoon rosemary, minced
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup corn kernels
2 cups milk (or cream)
1 cup soft goat cheese
3 eggs
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
In a bowl, combine the cooked rice, Parmesan and egg. Season well with salt and pepper. Pour into an oiled springform cake pan. Spread the rice evenly over the bottom and sides of the pan, using your hands to press it down well to form a dense, even crust.
Bake in the oven for 15 minutes, or until the crust is set and browned. Remove from the oven and keep warm.
In a nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic, onions, mushrooms and rosemary. Season with salt and pepper. Saut over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the mushrooms are soft and appear dry. Add the corn and saut for 1 to 2 minutes to heat it through. Remove from heat and set aside.
Add the milk to the saucepan over medium heat and warm. Place the goat cheese in a bowl and soften with the back of a spoon or spatula. Add the warm milk to the cheese and whisk to dissolve. Add the eggs one at a time and mix in. Season well with salt and pepper. Fold the mushroom mixture into the egg mixture.
Place the cake pan holding the rice crust on a baking tray and pour in the egg mixture.
Bake in the oven for 40 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and slightly puffy. Remove from the oven and place on a rack to let cool. When cool, remove the sides of the springform pan.
To serve, slice quiche into hearty wedges and place on plates. Serves 4.
Per serving: 590 calories, 30 g protein, 57 g carbohydrate, 28 g fat (15 g saturated), 262 mg cholesterol, 476 mg sodium, 4 g fiber.