Easily one of the most exquisite and charming cities in the world to visit is the fabled Rio de Janeiro, nestled beautifully on the southern coast of Brazil between Belo Horizonte and So Paulo. Eleven million people live there, and most of them expect to be kissed on both cheeks upon greeting. (Don't try it with strangers, though!)
There are 122 miles of shoreline, numerous lagoons, 50 miles of beaches, a botanical garden, three national parks, four state parks, 88 nature conservation units and 1,105 parks and squares totaling 3,212 acres.
It's an exciting place any time, but whatever you do, take along someone who speaks Portuguese. People who speak English are few, and most understand even less than they speak.
The best time to visit is June through August, our summer and the Brazilian winter. Temperatures are moderate and variable (60-80 degrees Fahrenheit with moderate humidity). If you go during the Brazilian summer, December through February, you will swelter in 90-degree temperatures.
Any time of year Brazil spells the sounds of music, including samba schools, the bossa nova beat and beautiful people moving to the rhythms along the sprawling beaches.
Those who have visited Rio as well as those who have only fantasized about it will quickly think of Copacabana Beach, populated with avid sunbathers and lined by tall, luxury hotels. They will remember "The Girl from Ipanema" as they walk along the beach but perhaps not the severe undertow that makes most first-time visitors hesitant to swim out very far.
There is a romantic flavor to Rio that is indescribable. It needs to be experienced. The beaches and sunshine are the major draw, although the day we chose to spend on the beach was cloudy. The beauty of the ocean with the large outcrops of rocks is unparalleled.
Although the night life gets a lot of publicity, it is the natural beauty of the nearby forested mountains and the cascading waterfalls that remain in the memory.
Probably the best-known symbol of Rio is the statue of Criso Redentor (in Portuguese), or Christ the Redeemer, magnificently placed at the top of Corcovado Hill in the Tijuca Forest. The statue of Christ, with uplifted arms, stands 125 feet high. Some visitors regard it as awe-inspiring, while others consider it so large as to be sacrilegious. It is one of the reasons Rio has been called "a work of God" and why natives call it "the Marvelous City."
From the summit of Corcovado Hill (2,329 feet), a panoramic view of Rio spreads out, including the dramatic Sugar Loaf mountain, azure Guanabara Bay, Copacabana and Ipanema beaches.
The Tijuca Forest is the largest urban forest in the world, (8,150 acres), and it is the ecological heart of Brazil.
My wife, Marti, and I stayed at the Rio Othon Palace Hotel across the street from Copacabana Beach — for $160 per night. From the 25th floor we had a magnificent view of the beach and the city.
The best opportunity to see Rio in a short time is to take a daylong bus tour that hits the most famous places and includes a fine lunch at a downtown restaurant. Our hotel offered a special rate on the tour of $70 per person. (The advertised tour price is $85.)
We had an amiable guide who spoke more Portuguese than English, but his English was understandable; unfortunately, he bailed out midday and was replaced by an indifferent guide whose English was poor.
You should ride the cog train to the top of Corcovado, making note of the lush vegetation on the way. Tijuca National Park, designated a Mankind's Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, has an abundance of eucalyptus, jacaranda, ironwoods, jackfruit trees and other native species. On Corcovado Mountain, you take the stairs to the towering Christ the Redeemer statue.
In the afternoon, you pass by Rio's beaches en route to the Urca District, where you will ride a cable car for a two-staged ascent up Sugar Loaf mountain. While Utah's Snowbird cable car seems more stable, the Rio car presents a longer trip and a more impressive, even unforgettable, view.
Some people prefer to take a 4x4 tour or a hiking expedition with specialized guides who provide security, ropes for scaling mountainous paths and details about birdlife, flora and fauna. The more adventurous wear swim suits under their clothes so they can take a natural shower in one of the many waterfalls.
There are century-old churches, monuments, cinemas, theaters, nightclubs, grand hotels and shopping centers.
Rio is blessed with hundreds of restaurants and dozens of museums. Be sure to try one of the many churrascarias, barbecue houses that have dozens of skewers of meat to choose from, from sausages to steak. Salads are included, and you can get very full for $15-$20.
Rio is by no means a safe city, and Americans are easy to spot. So limit sightseeing to daytime, and avoid renting a car. Brazilians are often reckless and volatile in traffic. Robberies are also common on the streets, so it is considered unwise to carry valuables or to "linger" anywhere.
Although Brazil is suffering an energy crisis, it does not seem evident in Rio where lights blaze across the entire city. Most airlines will take you to Rio for around $800, but there are a number of money-saving package deals available. Although Varig is the best-known Brazilian Air Line, TAM is acquiring more name recognition and did a terrific job for us. United and American also fly into Brazil.
One more thing — don't drink the water. Buy sealed bottles of water, preferably with American labels, and use it even for brushing your teeth.
E-mail: dennis@desnews.com