CONCORD, N.H. — You don't need to eat seafood to appreciate the culinary bounty of the oceans.
There is a world of sea vegetables (vegetarian-speak for seaweed) waiting to work their way into your repertoire. And once the ick-factor is overcome, diners are amazed at the variety of tastes and textures they offer.
To help dismiss any reluctance, let us first set straight a few things. Culinary seaweed, also called sea greens, is not the gelatinous or sometimes crunchy heaps of brown stuff people try to avoid stepping on at the beach.
Many types of sea vegetables are harvested from specific varieties. They are packed with nutrients and high in calcium and other minerals.
Chances are most people already eat seaweed but don't realize it. Many convenience and junk foods, from salad dressings to "cheese-in-a-can" to ice cream contain carrageenan, a thickener made from seaweed.
Don't forget sushi, the rolled varieties of which are wrapped in sheets of dried seaweed called nori.
A great introduction to seaweed is the kind of seaweed salad available at most Japanese restaurants. This is usually a mixed salad of several raw seaweeds, along with shredded carrots and cucumbers topped with a spicy vinegar dressing.
Dried seaweeds (the most common way to buy them as ingredients for home cooking) are readily available at most natural food stores and just about any Asian market.
One popular variety is wakame, which makes a great green to add to vegetable and miso soups. Crumble or cut the dried wakame into tiny pieces and sprinkle roughly 1 ounce (about 1/8 cup) for every 6 to 8 cups of liquid. Simmer for at least 15 minutes after adding.
Another popular method of preparation is to stir-fry, for which the hiziki (also spelled hijiki) and arame varieties excel. Unlike the larger nori and wakame, these are thin, noodle-like seaweeds with a salty taste and toothy texture.
The easiest way to prepare them is to soak them first in warm water, then rinse under cool water and sauté with sesame seed oil before adding your remaining stir-fry ingredients.
For a twist, soak the seaweeds in apple juice or cider before cooking.
A great recipe for hiziki comes from Martha Rose Shulman's "The Best Vegetarian Recipes" (William Morrow, 2001, $25). She pairs the sea green with hearty Japanese udon noodles and crisp vegetables in a slightly sweet sauce.
SOBA NOODLE WITH HIZIKI, SESAME SEEDS, SLIVERED CARROTS AND TURNIPS
(Preparation 30 minutes)
10 ounces soba noodles
1/4 cup dried hiziki seaweed
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger
3/4 pound carrots, cut into matchsticks
1/2 pound tender young turnips, cut into matchsticks
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sesame seeds, lightly toasted
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Bring a large stockpot of lightly salted water to a boil and cook noodles until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain, rinse briefly with cool water and set aside.
While the pasta cooks, place the hiziki in a medium bowl and cover with warm water. Let sit until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain the hiziki in a mesh strainer and rinse until water runs clear, about 3 minutes.
Transfer the hiziki to a small skillet. Add the soy sauce, sugar and 1/4 cup water and gently sauté over a medium-low flame, about 4 or 5 minutes. Set aside.
Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large, heavy skillet over a medium-high flame. Add the onion. Stir and cook until the onion softens and colors slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook 30 second, stirring constantly.
Add the carrots and turnips and cook for 1 minute. Add the salt and hiziki, along with any remaining cooking liquid. Cover the skillet and cook 2 minutes, until the carrots and turnips are crisp-tender.
Stir in the soba noodles and 1 tablespoon of sesame seeds and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Add the sesame oil, stir to combine, then remove the pan from the heat. Sprinkle with the remaining sesame seeds and cilantro. Makes 4 servings. Recipe from Martha Rose Shulman's "The Best Vegetarian Recipes," William Morrow, 2001, $25.