When you hear the word "bohemian," what comes to mind? "Rhapsody," perhaps? Images of Gypsy-like wanderers? Maybe you think of the simple fashions of the '60s that echoed the values of earnest, peace-loving youth. Or the essential roots of Europe.
That last one is what is reflected at the Bohemian Brewery and Grill, just off State Street in the middle of the valley. Get there and you'll find a rough-hewn lodge with a towering central fireplace, large game trophies, European flags and large canvases of modern art. And the aromas are not to missed, either. They are what wraps this rustic scene together.
My husband, Gary, and I had come for dinner before a movie. We started with two appetizers. The light crab cakes, accented with a dollop of smooth, savory mayonnaise, were my favorite. On the other hand, who can resist roasted garlic, soft and spreadable, on cheese-crusted sourdough toast points? I confess, leftovers of these made perfect snacks to smuggle into the movie theater.
I also enjoyed the blackberry lemonade, though I kept waiting for a kick or a hard edge to balance the mellow sweetness of the blackberry.
Soup was served with my entree, and I chose the housemade minestrone. It's hard to enjoy ready-made soup when I eat out. It just doesn't compare to soups created in the kitchen with stocks and fresh ingredients. The Bohemian's minestrone is a hearty version with a robust, beefy broth.
It was difficult deciding what to eat for dinner. The entree section is where the menu sings. There are so many plates that look good and compete with sections of pasta, sandwiches and hearth-baked pizzas. When scanning the entrees, the focus on meats is apparent, as is an emphasis on accents of fruits, nuts, garlic and herbs.
Gary ordered the Bohemian goulash, which was a plate full of rich gravy and beef resembling pot roast, both in flavor and texture. All this was topped off with giant, fluffy dumplings.
I had the roasted pork with apricot, and garlic mashed potatoes. I enjoyed this plate for the interesting flavors and the incredible tenderness of the pork. Of course, it didn't hurt to have a mound of the most delectable creamy/lumpy garlic-laced potatoes to work with, loading each bite with a bit of that, and the pork, and diced, roasted apricots.
Despite a more-than-ample meal thus far, dessert was still on the horizon and still sounded good. We chose the bread pudding and the apricot dumpling, leaving crepes for another visit.
The bread pudding was a looser, moist version of the classic, stuffed with raisins and heavily laced with spices. It was topped with cream and a light, tan sauce that featured hints of coffee and caramel.
The apricot dumpling is a good choice for those wanting something less sweet. Picture a stewed apricot surrounded by a fine-textured dumpling and covered with a sweet sour-cream sauce. Its simplicity is what makes it great, though that sauce was so good I nearly picked up the plate to lick it clean.
The Bohemian is a great place to be because it's festive, rustic and toasty warm. The food is hearty, skillfully composed and modestly priced. In my mind, it's an advantage that the Bohemian stands alone in an area of the valley where little else compares to its unique signature and caliber.
Prices for appetizers: $3-$7, soups and salads: $2-$8, sandwiches: $6-$7, pizzas: $8 and $12, entrees: $8-$18, desserts: $5-$6.
The Bohemian Brewery and Grill
**** (out of five)
Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight daily
Location: 94 E. Fort Union Blvd. (just east of State Street), 566-5474
Payment: checks, major credit cards
Reservations: recommended for holidays or large groups
E-mail: stephanie@desnews.com