CONCORD, N.H. — Don't let the salad days of summer lull you into plate after plate of iceberg lettuce.

Salads that at the start of summer are so appealing for their fresh and cooling ingredients can lose their luster if only the plain and predictable are tossed in the bowl.

But with inviting produce piling up at farm stands, it's easy to liven things up and make standard salads sensational.

An easy way to add flavor and texture to any salad is croutons. But don't rely on the stale bits sold in grocers; for truly bold flavors and hardy crunch, make your own in just minutes.

Start with a hardy loaf of bread (anything already sliced probably won't do). Cut several 1-inch-thick slices, then cut each slice into cubes, about the size of a quarter.

Toss the bread cubes in a bowl. Add about 3 tablespoons olive oil per 2 slices of bread and toss to coat. Now add the seasonings and toss. Paprika, oregano, thyme and basil work well. Also try curry powder or garam masala.

Spread the bread cubes evenly over a baking sheet and bake at 400 degrees Fahrenheit until lightly browned and crisp, about 10 minutes.

For a fruit salad with a twist, make the croutons with corn oil instead of olive, and toss with brown sugar and cinnamon.

Speaking of fruit, add it to a dinner or lunch salad for a sweet touch. An Italian salad staple is golden raisins. Soak them in warm water for about 15 minutes, then drain and add to the salad. Pears and apples also are nice.

Or for a tart take, toss a handful of dried cranberries and lightly toasted pine nuts with mesclun mix and tomatoes.

To provide both visual and taste appeal, vary your tomatoes. There is a world beyond the beefsteak. Try yellow and orange cherry tomatoes, or even green tomatoes cut into chunks, battered and fried.

And stay far away from iceberg lettuce. If mesclun mixes seem tired, try greens such as kale and collards, or even baby spinach leaves. To spice it up, add a handful of fresh dandelion or mustard greens.

Don't forget the dressing. Vinaigrettes are best and infinitely versatile. Start with a base of 5 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon vinegar (red wine, balsamic and cider are nice) and a pinch of salt and pepper. Shake and use.

Or add honey and mustard for a honey mustard vinaigrette. A tablespoon or two of jam gives the dressing a creamy, fruity flavor. And minced fresh herbs always are a welcome addition.

For more great salad ideas, turn to Elsa Peterson-Schepelern's "Salads" (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2001, $12.95), which offers recipes for 30 salads from lunch and dinner to dessert.


ASIAN PEAR SALAD WITH MACADAMIAS AND MACADAMIA NUT OIL

(Preparation 20 minutes)

1 tablespoons white sesame seeds

4 ounces Chinese long beans (snake beans) or other green beans

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 red chilies, finely sliced

1 cup arugula greens

4 cups other salad greens

2 Asian pears, or 4 red-skinned pears

Juice of 1 lime

1 cup macadamia nuts, unsalted

1/4 cup macadamia nut oil (olive oil can be used)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet, stirring frequently, for several minutes or until lightly golden. Set aside.

Fill a large bowl with cold water and ice. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil and blanch the beans for about 3 minutes or until al dente. Remove the beans from the boiling water and plunge into ice water to stop cooking.

Drain the beans and pat dry. Pour 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large bowl, then add the beans, chilies and greens. Toss gently to coat.

Slice the pears into wedges and cut out the core. Brush the wedges with lime juice, then add to the salad and toss.

Arrange the salad on 4 plates. Sprinkle with macadamia nuts, sesame seeds, salt and pepper. Drizzle with macadamia oil and serve. Makes 4 servings. Asian Pear Salad with Macadamias and Macadamia Nut Oil is from Elsa Peterson-Schepelern's "Salads," Ryland, Peters & Small, 2001, $12.95.


TUSCAN PANZANELLA

(Preparation 15 minutes active, 2 hours setting)

6 very ripe plum tomatoes

2 garlic cloves, sliced into slivers

4 thick slices chewy, day-old bread

1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced

1 red onion, diced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/2 to 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar (cider vinegar also is good)

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

Handful basil leaves, torn to small pieces

1/4 cup capers packed in brine, rinsed and drained

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350 Fahrenheit. Cut the tomatoes in half, push slivers of garlic into them, then arrange on a baking sheet. Bake for about 1 hour, or until wilted and some of the moisture has evaporated.

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Meanwhile, lightly oil a large skillet and pan toast each piece of bread. Tear the toast into bite-size pieces and add to a large salad bowl. Sprinkle the bread with water until just a bit damp.

Add tomatoes, cucumber, onion, parsley, salt and pepper. Sprinkle with olive oil and vinegar, toss well, then set aside for about 1 hour for flavors to develop.

Just before serving, add basil leaves and capers. Makes 4 servings. Tuscan Panzanella is from Elsa Peterson-Schepelern's "Salads," Ryland, Peters & Small, 2001, $12.95.


J.M. Hirsch can be e-mailed at jhirsch@ap.org.

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