1. Bear River Bird Refuge
Lawmakers in Washington, D.C., established the Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge by special act on April 23, 1928. It was the 48th refuge placed under government protection. The Bear River Bird Refuge is probably best known for waterfowl hunting in fall and winter. Come October, ducks fly in and hunters drive out to meet them, assuming their luck and skills are sufficient for success. But, there's more to this marsh located on the eastern side of the Great Salt Lake than decoys and duck blinds. It is home, for example, to 208 species of birds, including 29 species of swans, geese and ducks, and 30 species of shorebirds, along with such unique varieties as the northern goshawk, western wood-pewee, willow flycatchers, chipping sparrows and rock wrens. There is a 12-mile loop within the refuge that offers great viewing opportunities either by vehicle or bike. This is also a place where people can launch canoes and kayaks, get out on the marshes and get an even closer look at the local wildlife. Only about 50,000 people a year take the opportunity to view wildlife close up and in their natural habitat. Binoculars are a must for anyone opting to take this tour.
Directions: The refuge and visitors center are located 15 miles west of Brigham City.
2. Fort Buenaventura
The fort represents the first permanent Anglo settlement in the Great Basin. It was built in the early 1840s and was once a state park. Last year it was turned over to the city of Ogden. Included in the historic tour are the stockade and cabin replicas and a visitors center and museum showing early Native American and pioneer history. A trading post, currently open only on Saturdays, offers a range of early trading items, such as beads and handmade tools. Popular with walkers and bikers is a one-mile trail within the park. Near the fort is a pond open to fishing and canoeing. Rental canoes are available. Running alongside the fort is the Weber River, which is also open to fishing. More recently a section of the river near the fort has become popular with canoers and kayakers. Occasionally, the fort will be the host site for mountain men rendezvous, where life in the early times is played out with demonstrations in early living skills, competition in such areas as knife- and ax-throwing, and tepee living. Plans are to offer more historical demonstrations, such as blacksmithing and woodworking. There is also the possibility that Native Americans will get involved in fort activities. Some camping is open on fort grounds.
Directions: The fort and the 32 acres it sits on are located within the city limits of Ogden — at 2450 A Avenue.
3. Antelope Island
Lots of people know that Antelope Island is the largest land mass in the Great Salt Lake, but not many take advantage of the recreational opportunities offered. One of the main attractions is the wildlife, and the main figure in the menagerie is the buffalo. There are estimates of 600 to 700 buffalo on the island, and it would be difficult to spend any time there and not see one grazing. There are also buffalo in the state pens on the island. It will be harder to see some of the other main characters, like bighorn sheep, some of the state's largest mule deer, coyotes and, of course, antelope. On the eastern shore of the island is the restored Fielding Garr Ranch. The ranch holds what was the oldest inhabited home in Utah and a blacksmith shop. Park staff routinely give demonstrations on such topics as candle dipping, spinning wool and early wood work. Toward the northern end of the island there are 35 miles of trails for hiking, biking and horseback riding. Routine patrols along the trails help to ensure people are not left stranded in the wilderness. Currently, there are plans to extend the trails into the inner areas of the island. Along with the larger animals, the island is also a stop-off point for many birds, most notably waterfowl, which can be seen along the 7.5-mile drive across the causeway. There are 75 camping units on the northern tip of the island.
Directions: Take the Freeport exit off I-15 and continue west to the island entrance, then across the causeway to the island.
4. Pony Express Trail
Carrying the mail by horseback was a very brief period in American history — only about 18 months — but probably one of the most celebrated. The route from Missouri to California passes through Utah. The section from Fairfield to Wendover remains pretty much as it was back in 1860. The recognized Utah route is 133 miles long and offers a realistic look back in time, starting with an old gravesite on the west side of Lookout Mountain that is rumored to be linked to the early Mormon figure Porter Rockwell. A few miles down the road is Simpson Springs, where some primitive campsites are available. Visitors are warned not to drink the water, however. Also at Simpson Springs there is a restored Pony Express station. Past the springs is a long stretch of arid desert, where herds of wild horses and antelope roam. Fish Springs National Refuge, an oasis in the desert, is the next major stop. It really is an oasis in the desert, and it gets visits from more species of birds — 278 — than either of the other two national refuges in the state. The refuge gets its constant water supply from snow that melted between 8,000 and 12,000 years ago and is just now making it to the surface. It's called fossilized water. There are picnic tables on the refuge. Continuing on, the road passes through three small communities — Callao, Gold Hill and Ibapah. Gold Hill is listed as a ghost town. The route is also popular with rock hounds exploring for geode beds. Maps are available through the BLM. The trail ends at the Utah-Nevada border.
Directions: Start at Fairfield and head west to Faust. West of town is the beginning of a well-maintained dirt road. There are monuments along the route to help guide travelers.
5. Nine Mile Canyon
The canyon, located about an hour's drive northeast of Price, was once a supply route. Old metal telegraph poles can still be found in the canyon, which is much longer than its name might imply. Its main feature, however, is the collection of Indian rock art put there by the early Fremont Indians, cousins of the early Anasazi. Experts also claim there is a lot of art put there by the Utes, whose story is told with horses and long, feathered headdresses, which can be seen on some of the figures. It is said to be the greatest concentration of rock art sites in the United States. On one of the panels is a hunt scene that is believed to be the most photographed piece of Indian rock art in the world. Along with an auto tour, there are also a number of hiking and biking routes, including two bike loops. Use, however, is restricted to existing roads. There are two rest stops along the way and camping is permitted, but limited within the canyon. This is also a great area for wildlife viewing. Devote at least one full day for this tour. In good weather, travel is possible by car, but the road can be dusty. Before heading for the canyon, it is recommended people pick up a map from the Price or Duchesne BLM offices.
Directions: There are two access points. One access road is located on the outskirts of Wellington, east of Price, next to the Walker service station. Take U.S. 6/191 north and continue on the road for about 35 miles to the canyon. The road is paved to the Soldier Creek Mine, then becomes a well-maintained dirt road. Also, from Vernal, it's possible to take U.S. 40/191, which is one mile west of Myton.
6. San Rafael Swell
This is not an area that can be visited in a single day. Or, for that matter, a week. It offers a lifetime of exploring opportunities. There are 13 different recognized areas, with the most popular being around Buckhorn Wash. Within the Swell are such recognized areas as Goblin Valley State Park and Cleveland Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry, and such little-known areas as Devils Canyon, Mussentuchit Badlands and Buckhorn Wash. The Swell is a result of a massive uplift that formed a geologic anticline or bulge in the earth's surface. Not only is it a great paleontological resource, but a biological resource as well. Along with a number of recognized plants and animals, including a large herd of desert bighorn sheep, there are also a number of threatened or endangered species. The real attraction of the San Rafael Swell is its spectacular beauty carved in the famous red rock of Southern Utah, and yet only about 10,000 people a year actually make trips into the area. Vehicle camping is allowed at the Wedge Overlook and near the Swinging Bridge, where there are 11 sites with toilets, picnic tables and tent pads. Aside from that, primitive camping spots are plentiful along the nearly 2,000 miles of routes open to motorized vehicles. There are also a number of trails open to hiking, biking and horseback riding. This area also holds several historic sites related to early uranium and vanadium mining within the boundaries. Several of the state's better rock art panels — Buckhorn Wash and Black Dragon — are also within the area. Maps and information are available over the BLM Web site in Price — www.blm.gov/utah/price.
Directions: There is not one point of entry, but many, including cutoffs from I-70 between Green River and junction with U-10, along U.S. 6 between Wellington and Green River and along U-10 between Price and Emery.
7. Henry Mountains
When people think of high-mountain experiences, the Uinta or Wasatch ranges will probably come to mind, but most likely not the Henry Mountains. Yet the Henrys rise from some of the most arid country in Utah and go up into beautiful high-mountain surroundings. There are three mountain peaks reaching more than 10,000 feet, the highest being Mount Ellen, rising 11,522 feet. Along the road from Hanksville there are a number of very nice camping areas. Once on top of the range there are a limitless number of roads open for vehicles, ATVs and mountain biking. For those choosing to venture to the western side of the range, there is always the possibility of chancing onto a group of buffalo. The Henrys' herd is the only free-roaming herd of buffalo in the United States. There are also a number of other wildlife species in the area, including cougars and mule deer. For a change, there's also the opportunity to drop down into the arid regions below, where signs of very early America can be found in isolated pieces of dinosaur bones and even a few sharks' teeth, if you know where to look. One route to the western range starts at Notom, west of Hanksville, and ends up just north of Bullfrog. A spur off the road, which runs along Waterpocket Fold, leads to the Burr Trail and to the town of Boulder.
Directions: There are several access points, the easiest being from the town of Hanksville. A well-maintained dirt road heads south from town.
8. Canyonlands National Park
Canyonlands National Park is much larger than its cousin 35 miles to the north, Arches National Park, but receives far less attention. Upward of 800,000 people a year visit Arches, while less than a third that number drive the extra 30 minutes to visit Canyonlands' most popular area — Island in the Sky. Fewer than 10,000 will visit the more rugged Maze District in a year. As is common in all national parks, this one offers incredible views, rock formations and an array of desert colors. Canyonlands, unlike some of the other parks, is everything to everyone. Island in the Sky is accessible, comfortable and convenient; while the Maze District can be rugged, primitive and remote. From Island in the Sky, visitors look down on the landscape and from the Needles they look up. There are some great trails in both areas for hiking and mountain biking — some short and some requiring skill and endurance. One of the rarely seen sights is Horseshoe Canyon, which is part of but detached from the park. It holds one of the greatest galleries of early Indian rock art in the world. The canyon is about 30 miles inland over the Maze road. There is a parking area near the trailhead to the canyon, and primitive camping is permitted. The hike into the canyon is about six miles round trip. The Maze road also leads to some of the lesser-seen splendor within the park, like the Doll House area, which overlooks the confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers. Driving into the Needles area there is another of the notable rock-art panels — Newspaper Rock. Some of the better mountain-bike riding is in the Islands area. The Needles area tends to be too sandy for most riders. There are 26 camp spots in the Needles and 12 in Island in the Sky. Camping in the Maze District is primitive.
Directions: There are four access points to the park — two paved, one well-maintained dirt and one very rugged route in. The two paved routes — to Island in the Sky and Needles District — are south of Moab. The maintained route to the Maze District is 20 miles north of Hanksville, across from the Goblin Valley State Park access road. The roughest route, into Teapot Canyon, is near Hite on the shores of Lake Powell.
9. Brian Head/Cedar Breaks
Most of the traffic to Brian Head comes in the winter to ski, and yet summer is no less appealing. On the boundaries of the ski area is Cedar Breaks National Monument, which is no less spectacular than some of the other national parks in Utah, just smaller and lesser known. In the summer there are a number of popular hikes into and around the park. In recent years, Cedar Breaks is most often compared to Bryce Canyon, but on a miniature level. Within a natural amphitheater are hundreds of limestone formations, all in vivid hues of red. There is a campground within the park. Brian Head has endeavored to make itself as popular with mountain bikers as it has been with skiers. There are, in fact, a number of great mountain biking routes along with thousands of miles of backcountry roads. Some of the more popular rides start at the peak of the resort and go downhill. At the finish, a van will collect bikers and shuttle them back uphill to the resort. There are also a number of great fishing spots in the area, including Panguitch and Navajo lakes.
Directions: There are three access points. One passes off I-15 through the town of Parowan on U-143 and into Brian Head; a second is a spur off U-14 between Cedar City and U.S. 89; and the third is west from Panguitch on U-143.
10. Edge of the Cedars
Utah is filled with history dating back to early America, and the museum at Edge of the Cedars is located in the very heart of what was the early culture. It can be a gateway to the Trail of the Ancients, a defined loop through key early-American regions — Natural Bridges National Monument, Goosenecks State Park and Hovenweep National Monument, with side routes leading to Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. The museum at Edge of the Cedars features exhibits of early Puebloan and Anasazi life, along with the Ute and Navajo cultures. One popular attraction at the museum is the reconstructed Puebloan ruins, which include a Kiva or religious center, which people can climb into. The museum holds the largest displays of ancestral Puebloan pottery in the Four Corners region. But what makes this stop glitter even brighter among the secret jewels is what's nearby. The staff at the museum can direct visitors to some well-known ruins that are accessible on foot. Located to the east is Hovenweep, which includes six groups of ruins, the most noted being the towers, and to the west the lesser known Valley of the Gods and better remembered Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, one of the most photographed areas in southern Utah. There is no camping within the state park, but there are plenty of places to stay in nearby towns — Blanding, Monticello, Bluff and in the Manti-La Sal Mountains.
Directions: Access road is on the outskirts of Blanding. State museum is about 1 1/2 miles off the road.