Getting there: The whale-watching tours generally begin at Tadoussac, about 145 miles east of Quebec City. It's about another 1 1/2 hours to reach Ste. Anne de Portneuf. Route 138 links Quebec City with all the towns along the St. Lawrence's north bank. You'll need to take a 10-minute ferry to get to Tadoussac and points beyond.
Whale-watch cruises:
— Croisieres de Grand Heron, Ste. Anne de Portneuf, $30 per adult, $21 for children under 13 years. Trips last about 2 1/2 hours. Located just north of town, along Route 138. Contact 418-587-6006 or www.baleinebleue.ca.
— Essipit, Les Escoumins, $32 per adult. Trips last about 2 hours. Located on the Innu reservation in Les Escoumins, along Route 138, at 46 rue de la Reserve, Essipit, Les Escoumins. Contact 418-233-2266 or www.essipit.com.
Tips: Tour operators say the best time to view blue whales is in August, when they tend to congregate in the river. But sightings have occurred as early as April, and other whales are in the river from May through September. Bring warm clothes, no matter the weather. It gets cold on the river, and temperatures can change quickly. Jackets, gloves and hats are provided by the tour companies. Wear sturdy shoes. Bring binoculars, a camera, sunscreen and a hat.
Accommodations: La Nichee bed and breakfast, 46 Route 138 Ste. Anne de Portneuf, $18 for a room with shared bed, breakfast included. The proprietors speak little English but are welcoming and helpful.
Other attractions: The Marine Interpretation Center (Centre d'Interpretation des Mammifieres Marins — CIMM), at 108 rue de la Cale-Seche, Tadoussac, has videos, games and activities centered around whales. Admission is $3.75 per adult, $2.25 per child. Croisieres du Grand Heron also offers bird-watching tours and a nighttime "bioluminescence tour" of plankton. There is hiking, biking and fishing throughout the region.
For more information: Whales in the St. Lawrence: www.whales-online.net. Quebec: www.quebecregion.com. North bank of St. Lawrence: www.tourismecote-nord.com.