BRACKETVILLE, Texas — When a nonnative thinks of Texas, he may very well be visualizing Brackettville.
That's because this tiny (pop. 1,800) hamlet perched on the side of Texas 90 in far southwest Texas has been the location of almost more Western-themed films than it has residents.
In 1959, John Wayne filmed "The Alamo" on the rugged Shahan ranch six miles north of town and left behind the entire set — Alamo, cantinas and all. Since then, hundreds more movie and TV crews have come and gone. Remember the scene in the TV series "Lonesome Dove" when Gus is in what seems to be the most godawful desert ever? Yep — Brackettville.
Start by taking U.S. 377 south and west through Granbury, Stephenville, Brownwood, Brady and Junction. Pass through Rock Springs and turn south on Farm Road 674. Now you're facing about 90 minutes of the most primitive, interesting car travel possible in the entire state. You can't drive very fast because of the tight, straight-up-and-down curves and the abundant wildlife — deer, wild turkey, even javelinas.
About eight miles north of Brackettville, the high hills mostly end. But two miles farther is the entrance to Alamo Village. Then comes Brackettville itself. A Texas history lesson is now available.
Brackettville was once home to the Seminole Negro U.S. Army scouts, who fought the Apache and Comanche and lived on what is now Fort Clark Springs. Get on its grounds and drive south. A narrow gravel road suddenly takes you to a near-oasis packed with shade trees on either side of gurgling Las Moras Creek. This is where the scouts had their camp, and it's one of the most peaceful pastorals anywhere. Deer and turkey abound; a wild bird sanctuary ensures you'll see some exotic feathered things flying overhead.
If you want to spend the night in Brackettville, your sole option is the motel on Fort Clark Springs. You'll have a working bathroom, but none of the rooms has a phone. Prices are $40-$60, depending on the time of year.
Dining in Brackettville will not be a gourmet experience. For a little local flavor — and possible gastric consequences — try the Krazy Chicken. The ancient grease caked on the grill adds a piquant flavor to the fajitas and hamburgers.