JACKSON, N.H. — Like stars at a film premiere, the White Mountains expect to have their pictures taken. Cloaked in autumn finery, the celebrity peaks dazzle with ruby-red forests, sapphire-blue lakes and frost that clings like diamonds in the dawn.
Fans of fall foliage snap pictures at 36 scenic overlooks along the White Mountains Trail. A recent traveler on this highway called it "New England's most scenic 100 miles." And I can attest that twice as many observation areas are needed. Here, nature draws a crowd, and the audiences can't get enough of the grand performance. They beg for more.
This stellar region has natural beauty, cultural charm and stimulating recreation. Outdoor pursuits — picnicking, hiking, fishing and camping — get top billing. Rural towns and scenic byways offer unexpected surprises, ranging from picturesque covered bridges to apple-cider mills.
On our journey through deep forests, we sample a little of everything. We follow U.S. Highway 302 from Jackson to Crawford Notch, catching glimpses of waterfalls tumbling down rocky cliffs.
We angle off at Bretton Woods to ride the Mount Washington Cog Railway, a revered attraction with storybook qualities. When it was built in 1869, tourists marveled at its capability to ascend the 6,288-foot granite mountain. They still do. This valiant feat seems to hang in jeopardy at one point known as Jacob's Ladder, where the climb is up a 37 percent grade. The coal-fired train groans and belches cinders but creeps steadily upward. The reward at the top is a panoramic view of the Presidential Range.
At Franconia, we make a side trip to the Frost Place. Poet Robert Frost lived in the simple farmhouse from 1915-20 and came as a visitor for many years afterward. Here he wrote "Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening." After touring the house, people follow a nature trail posted with lines from his poetry.
Mother Nature blessed Franconia Notch with extraordinary structures, the most spectacular being the Flume. Very narrow, this natural gorge has walls rising 90 feet. The sound of water echoes through the forest, building anticipation long before we reach the 800-foot-long chasm. Once inside, we follow boardwalks and stairways. The water rush intensifies into an ear-pounding rumble at Avalanche Falls.
By comparison, the walk to the waterfall at the Basin is serene. The trail curves through a hushed forest, carpeted with ferns, wildflowers and flowering shrubs, to a 20-foot round pothole. Picnickers have a choice spot for their lunches.
The Kancamagus Highway, or the "Kanc," the grand finale in this driving tour, crosses the White Mountain National Forest and edges the Swift River. This 34.5-mile segment from Lincoln to Conway climbs nearly 3,000 feet through pristine wilderness, providing dramatic scenery at every curve.
This route brings us back to our accommodation, The Inn at Thorn Hill. The approach is quintessential New England: We drive across a barn-red covered bridge. The inn is a new version; a fire destroyed the historic accommodation several years ago. Innkeepers Jim and Ibby Cooper set out to rebuild and, in doing so, improved upon what was long considered one of New England's finest country inns. They added rooms and enlarged the dining room. The new spa, an oasis of quiet and healing, features a broad spectrum of treatments. The luxurious inn received the AAA Four Diamond rating shortly after it re-opened more than a year ago.
Guests' reasons for loving the inn are richly varied.
"They come here for a retreat, to unwind spirit and body," says Ibby Cooper. From wicker chairs on the wraparound porch, they enjoy stunning views of the White Mountains. They drink tea and cocktails in the library and lounge. Highly trained chefs create innovative entrees, ranging from roasted white sea bass with champagne grapes and chicory to grilled rack of lamb with red pepper puree and marinated artichokes. The wine cellar is filled with 2,500 liquid jewels. It is the only inn in New Hampshire to capture a Best Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine.
Spacious guest rooms evoke feelings of comfort and calm. Fine antiques, exquisitely selected fabrics and handsome accessories create a welcoming ambience in each of the 25 bedchambers. Fireplaces, double whirlpool tubs and featherbeds make this a top choice for romantic getaways. Call 800-289-8990 for information or reservations or go online at www.InnatThornHill.com.
Linda Lange writes for The News Sentinel in Knoxville, Tenn.