One could easily spend a week exploring Tokyo and only scratch the surface. But if time is short, two days are probably enough to get the flavor of this Asian megalopolis.
Afterwards, stick around and make Tokyo your base of operations for several excellent day trips into the Kanto region's hinterlands to experience a more serene side of Japan.
Japan's train system is ultra efficient and offers great access into and out of the city.
TOKYO STARTING FIVE
1. Akihabara. Any itinerary must include a visit to Akihabara's Electric Street, where you can recharge those jet-lagged batteries simply by tapping into the incredible energy that surrounds you.
Synonymous with all things electric, Akihabara is actually a conglomeration of many smaller and medium-sized electronics and appliance stores jammed into a radius of several square blocks.
If it runs or plays on either AC or DC — even perhaps the band AC/DC — chances are you'll find it in Akihabara, along with a growing collection of other shops devoted to Japanese comic book (manga) and animation (anime) genres that have gained world-wide popularity in recent years.
2. Shinjuku. Tokyo's equivalent to New York City's Times Square. High-rise office towers dominate the skyline, while street level allows you to really get a feel of the city's pulse.
You might also catch a glimpse of Japanese pop culture in the flesh by spotting some Shinjuku Girls, who dress and wear over-the-top makeup so as to appear like characters from manga and anime.
3. Tsukuji Wholesale Fish Market. Holy Starkist! Where else can you see a 125-pound slab of maguro (tuna) awaiting its chance to become sushi? Or how about watching live eels being gutted before your eyes? Charming? Hardly. Fascinating? Very.
The market, the largest of its kind in the world, is a lesson in organized chaos as buyers and sellers gather every day, except Sundays and alternate Wednesdays, to deal in a wide array of fish and shellfish to supply the city's restaurant and grocery needs.
Whereas it's the early bird that gets the worm, it's the early tourist who gets the best photos, as much of the morning's action has already concluded prior to 6 a.m. But don't fret if you hit the snooze button on your hotel clock a few too many times, because there's still plenty to see, even if you arrive as late as 7 a.m.
Warning: Don't even think about playing chicken with that racing forklift bearing down on you carrying all those Styrofoam boxes loaded with squid and octopus.
4. Asakusa. If you're looking to experience the slower-paced Tokyo, Asakusa district is definitely worth a visit.
You'll see Sensoji Buddhist Temple, the largest in the city, as well as get a first-hand view of the Japanese phenomenon known as Pachinko, where patrons seek to win prizes in a deafening casino-type atmosphere dependent on how hundreds of ball-bearing-sized steel balls negotiate a pinball-like machine.
5. Ginza (after dark). Lights, action! And more action!
Still worthy of time and attention. In no particular order and depending on what amount of time is available, consider a visit to the Imperial Palace, near Tokyo Station (Tokyo Tower is also located nearby), Ueno Park and the districts of Roppongi and Shibuya, where many of the city's beautiful people like to hang out.
FARTHER AFIELD
After spending several days exploring Tokyo, you'll probably be ready to take a break from the city's feverish pace, meaning it's time to go country.
Topping your list ought to be the mountain town of Nikko and the coastal enclave of Kamakura. Both represent significant historical periods of cultural, social and governmental change in Japan that can still be felt today.
Nikko. The Japanese enjoy saying, "Don't say magnificent until you've seen Nikko." It seems the world agrees, as the town's many ornate Shinto and Buddhist shrines and temples have indeed landed Nikko, located about two hours by train from Tokyo, on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Historically, Nikko's reason for being is that it's the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, credited with uniting Japan, leading to continuous rule by the Tokugawa shoguns during the Edo Period (1603-1867).
Probably Nikko's most famous attraction is the "Hear no evil, See no evil, Speak no evil" trio of monkeys, which have become the area's unofficial mascots.
These so-called Three Wise Monkeys are actually just one of multiple panels depicting monkey life carved by anonymous woodworkers on the outside of the Sacred Stable building.
If the outdoors is your thing, or you simply enjoy seeing lovely scenery, the town also sits at the entrance to Nikko National Park, which includes beautiful Lake Chuzenji. There are also several hot springs, waterfalls and cascades, along with an extensive system of hiking trails that make it a tourist favorite of many Japanese.
The train ride to Nikko is interesting and educational itself, as you'll pass through traditional rice paddies and also see some traditional terraced farming.
Kamakura
Another excellent day-trip, about one hour from Tokyo by train, is a visit to the giant bronze Buddha (Daibutsu) at Kamakura and myriad Buddhist temples in the area.
Kamakura became Japan's political capital in 1192, when Minamoto Yoritomo defeated an opposing clan to become shogun and establish a new government that would rule Japan more than a century.
The statue, created from multiple castings in 1252, was originally located inside a large temple. However, a tsunami in 1495 washed the building away, and the giant Buddha has not been enclosed since.
Kamakura has a more laid back feel to it than Nikko, which often suffers from overcrowding. Among the more interesting Buddhist temples to visit here are Kencho-ji, Engaku-ji and Hokoku-ji.
Getting there
From Tokyo, take the Tobu-Nikko line from Tobu Asakusa Station, under the Matsuya Department Store. The trip takes about two hours and costs 1,320 yen ($14.35 U.S.) one-way. From the train station to the shrines and temples requires a 300 yen ($3.25) bus ride one-way.
Best deal: It's wise to purchase a Nikko combination ticket for 1,000 yen ($10.90) which includes admission to the Toshogu, Rinnoji and Futarasan temple areas. This ticket can be purchased at any of the three temples. Individual admissions to each run 500-1,000 yen each.
Kamakura from Tokyo: Trains running directly to Kamakura depart regularly from Tokyo station and take about one hour. Cost is 890 yen ($9.68). You can also take the JR Tokaido line, but be aware that you will have to change trains at Ofuna station.
Best deal: Viewing the huge bronze Buddha is free, although there is a minor charge to climb up inside the hollow casting. Area temples charge admissions between 300-500 yen each.
Choosing your hotel
Getting a decent night's sleep in Tokyo doesn't necessarily mean shelling out $200-$500 (U.S.) per night to stay at a four- or five-star hotel.
Tokyo is an Asian business center and filled with hundreds of smaller business class hotels where you'll pay between $90-$150 (double occupancy) per night.
You can usually count on accomodations being very clean and efficiently operated, with the only downside being that rooms are typically cramped. But everything in Japan is cramped, by comparison, so consider it part of the adventure.
e-mail: chuck@desnews.com