The fact that you can get everything on the menu at Dad's American Deli, including breakfast, at nearly any time you want is only one of the homey touches at this pleasant, easy-to-overlook eatery.
The service is fast, friendly and intimate — the two people who waited on us seemed like mother and son, even if they're not — and American deli classics are ably, if not spectacularly, presented at a great price.
My husband and I stopped by Dad's on a recent weekend for a sort of late lunch/early dinner, which meant the place was empty except for us.
Interior furnishings were basic but comfortable, and there was a teensy but clean and fresh-looking salad bar near the soda dispenser.
There were plenty of cold sandwiches on the menu, from the intimidating Bronx Bruiser with roast beef, chicken, American cheese and fixings to the "vegetarian delight."
But we'd let lunch time pass us by, so we were more in the mood for something warm. That side of the menu contained everything from burgers and hot dogs to BLTs and grilled cheese in a concise but comprehensive listing.
My husband went with one of his favorites, the French dip, on a nice, sturdy whole-wheat roll. The beef was lean, juicy and savory, but we both found it a trifle scant in the sandwich. It was enough, but just barely. The jus, beefy without being salty and with a slick of rich fat across the top, was a nice accompaniment.
I had the "barnyard stack," a pulled-pork sandwich on ciabatta bread (my choice) topped with coleslaw. I usually prefer pickles as accompaniment to my pulled pork, but this was a nice red-cabbage slaw, not too wet and not too dry, crunchy and tangy and a good way to set off the tender pork — which, again, I found a little scant.
With my sandwich I had an order of fresh fruit, generously sized for the two bucks it cost, with whole strawberries, grapes and sweet, fresh-cut pineapple.
I'd like to go back and try the breakfast offerings at Dad's — they're available anytime — particularly their version of a bacon, egg and cheese biscuit, as well as the biscuits and gravy and the breakfast baked potato with egg, bacon, sausage gravy and Cheddar cheese. Sounds like a good way to start the day!
Soup and salad $1.19-$5.49, sandwiches and burgers 1.99-$7.99, breakfast items $2.49-$4.79, kids' meals $3.99, desserts 79 cents-$1.99.
Dad's American Deli
Rating: ★★1/2
Where: 1844 E. Fort Union Blvd., Cottonwood Heights (also at 2268 E. 3300 South)
Phone: 801-944-0868
Wheelchair access: Accessible
Also: Catering available; breakfast served all day
Stacey Kratz is a freelance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret News.
e-mail: skratz@desnews.com