Opening a restaurant today amid the fluctuating tastes and trends of the dining public, to say nothing of the changing economic times, is risky business. The failure rate in the first year is about 90 percent.
Nonetheless, there doesn't seem to be a shortage of daredevils willing and eager to challenge the reality of the marketplace and, as in the case of Squatter's Pub Brewery, also take on the stereotype of Utah as a teetotaler's paradise.Squatter's Pub is the local version of a popular trend in California - the brew pub. (Park City also is the home of a brew pub in conjunction with Schirf Brewery.) The brew pub typically features homemade beer brewed on the premises along with food served from a grill-type kitchen. Everything from bratwurst and pizza to a heartier fare of steaks and seafood specials is offered.
In my two visits, I was struck by the throngs of people who pack Squatter's since it opened a little more than a month ago. This was surprising, not only because of the widely held local value of abstinence, but national trends that indicate a marked decline in the consumption of most alcohol. The only alcoholic beverage still in favor with the American public is beer, though demographics show it is predominantly with the college-age crowd.
Squatter's certainly has its share of college-age customers, but there seem to be plenty of middle-age, downtown types, as well as a few non-drinkers, who interestingly were the first satisfied patrons to accompany me for a recent weeknight dinner. For my non-drinking friends, it was their third visit. They weren't attracted by the beer but rather by the upbeat, boisterous atmosphere Squatter's sports.
The interior resembles a slickly renovated warehouse (though it used to house the Jaz Ranch restaurant), with open beams on the high ceiling, track lighting and shiny hardwood floors. The brewing vats occupy one area that can be seen from the long bar, but the majority of the interior is a crowded dining area of polished wooden tables.
We sampled several of the appetizers, each disappointing. A generous serving of ale-steamed shrimp ($6.95) was devoid of any flavor, though the shrimp were tender and moist. Even the orange horseradish dipping sauce, which sounded better than it tasted, couldn't titillate our palates. The same fate befell the country pate ($4.95), which our waitress cryptically assured us would be good "because the chef was from New York." The pub fries with spicy mushroom gravy ($2.95) suffered from an overly peppery and mixlike mushroom sauce; the quesadilla with green chile peppers and salsa ($4.25) was also ordinary. Other appetizers include oysters on the half shell with red wine vinegar and chopped shallots and spicy Buffalo wings with blue cheese dipping sauce.
The same lack of distinctive flavor also characterized several of the sandwiches we tried, as well as the novel but bland lamb pizza ($7.95), even when topped with fresh vegetables and rosemary. The leg of lamb sandwich ($6.95), marinated in their stout beer, while tender, was tasteless, as was the warm potato salad that came with the sandwiches.
Other sandwiches include pastrami and swiss with sauerkraut, roasted turkey, hot dog with chopped onion, the "Squatterburger" with cheese and carmelized onions, ale mustard chicken breast with onions and peppers, ham and swiss, and vegetarian with asiago cheese. The prices range from $2.25 to $6.
We sampled only one of the more substantial entrees, the fish and chips ($5.95), which was satisfying. The pieces of cod coated with a thin beer batter were juicy, complemented by a green-tinted tartar sauce. Other choices include a cold cut antipasto-style platter, New York steak, turkey pot pie, marinated flank steak, chili, pan-fried chicken breast and evening seafood specials, priced from $3.95 for the chili to $12.95 for the steak. Several soup and salad offerings round out the menu.
Squatter's has been so popular that the owners are installing two more large vats to meet the demand for their "fresh handcrafted beer," brewed without preservatives or pasteurization. The likes of City Creek Pale Ale, Emigration Amber Ale and Mill Creek Cream Stout have locals thronging to its environs. Perhaps the same care given to the brewing operation will eventually find its way to the kitchen.
Rating: **1/2 Squatter's Pub Brewery, 147 W. Broadway, 363-BREW. Open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight, to 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Sunday from noon to 11 p.m. Checks with guarantee card and major credit cards accepted. No one under 18 admitted.
(BU) RECENT RESTAURANT REVIEWS - Following are capsulized versions of recommended restaurants reviewed by Al Church:
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Baci Trattoria, 134 W. Pierpont Ave., 328-1500. More a shrine to art and architecture than Italian cuisine (Fresco is still the best), Baci's presents good, occasionally uneven, pasta and dinner specials with lively and colorful style. ****
Lupo's Italian Restaurant, 249 E. 3300 South; 466-0371. Familiar Italian cuisine served in a friendly atmosphere. Lupo's features homemade sausage, large portions and moderate prices. Rating: ***1/2
Seaman James Bartley, 1118 E. Fort Union Blvd., Midvale, 566-3983, presents seafood with a straightforward approach. The only curves found in the flotsam and jetsam are those hanging about in the nautical interior. Fresh special, a creamy clam chowder and homemade sourdough bread are worth a try. ***
The Depot, 660 S. Main Street, Park City. 649-2102. A breezy pub that overlooks Park City's historic and current goings-on. The menu is Alpine-Austrian in flavor, featuring inexpensive lunch specials such as wienerschitzel, sausages and Hungarian goulash. The weekend dinner menu more upscale and continental. Rating: ***1/2
Carriage House, Triad Center, 330 W. South Temple, 328-1842. Despite this reasonably priced restaurant's incomplete surroundings, the engaging menu should meet most diner's needs. American cuisine with Continental touches, exemplified by sole in parchment, fettucine Florentine, as well as grilled meat and seafood round out the balanced bill of fare. ****
Hi-Land Broiler, 3130 S. Highland Drive, 486-2233. Zesty and healthy grilled skinless chicken seasoned with Middle Eastern herbs and spices are this small eatery's specialty. Grilled fish, barbecue ribs and sauteed potatoes are also very good. ***
Brackman Brothers' Bagel Bakery, 859 E. 900 South, 322-4350. Salt Lakers no longer have to smuggle real (i.e., boiled then baked) bagels in from the far-flung enclaves of New York or Brooklyn. A dozen or so varieties are served in a relaxed setting, with such specialties as lox, sable, whitefish salad, as well as homemade soup. ****
Tony Roma's, 985 E. Fort Union Blvd., Midvale. 566-RIBS. This is one chain that has the ingredients in place - service, lively atmosphere and standard fare prepared just right - to please most palates. The ribs are very, very good also ignore the adage about half a loaf is better than none. Order a whole loaf of onion rings. ***1/2
The 47 Samuri, 299 Trolley Square, 363-7294. Teppan yaki grill specialties are the focal point of this entertaining Japanese restaurant. Traditional dishes such as tempura, sukiyaki, sushi and teriyaki ae also served; but watching the samuri chef's flashing swords and spatula is the most fun. ***