High in the Peruvian Andes, where the sky is close and the air is clear and where mountains ring gentle valleys, the Incas established the capital of their empire: Cuzco.
At one time - some five centuries ago - it was the richest, most important city in the Americas. The Incas considered it the "navel of the earth," and their legends told of children of the sun who were sent to this place to teach and rule the people. They built their temples and decorated them with gold. They planted crops and held their religious festivals. Life for the most part was simple but good.Despite such an auspicious beginning, however, history has not been altogether kind to Cuzco.
In 1532, as the Inca civilization was flourishing - covering a vast area of what is now South America and connected by an intricate system of roads - the Spanish arrived. They came, riding sleek horses and dressed in formidable armor, with the persona of gods and the hearts of warriors.
The Incas proved no match for conquistador deceit or destruction. And the Spanish had no love for the civilization they conquered. They slaughtered thousands of the Indians and looted the countryside, doing their best to obliterate all sign of the Inca culture and religion.
But the Spanish weren't the only destructive force to plague Cuzco. Fault lines run deep below the city, and from time to time violent earthquakes have unleashed their power. In fact, one of the most important events still held in Cuzco is the annual Procession of the Lord of Earthquakes. Citizens gather at the square to pray for mercy and ask for his absence during the coming year.
But neither the Spanish nor the earthquakes have erased the Inca heritage in Cuzco. Today a city of approximately 140,000 - many of whom appear to live wall-to-wall in red-tiled houses that fill the valley - Cuzco is a place of layers. Visiting - or even reading about it - can be an interesting exercise in cultural geology.
At the bottom stratum are the Inca stoneworks. The most famous of these is Sacsayhuaman, a huge stone fortress at the edge of town. Built with an intriguing zig-zag pattern that meant an attacking force would have to expose its back at least part of the time during an attack, it is composed of large stones piled upon each other, and so closely fitted there is no need for mortar.
Sacsayhuaman fell to the Spanish in 1536. According to the legend, the slaughter of the defenders caused such carnage that the condors that came to pick at the bones darkened the sky for days.
The Spanish dismantled part of the fortress, and for years it was used as a quarry. But the outer, zig-zagging walls remain - mainly because the stones were too big to haul off. According to one report, the largest stone is 27 feet tall and weighs 360 tons - which raises intriguing questions about the Inca stonecutting and stone-moving capabilities.
Nearby are the Tampu-Machay ruins - the remains of the ancient Inca baths. Water flowing from the mountain here was an unexplained mystery to the Incas and was given spiritual importance. Water of any kind, in fact, was considered sacred; rituals were designed to pay homage to rivers, streams and even rainfall. At Tampu-Machay, an intricate system drew water from the mountain into the combination temple and baths.
Inside the city of Cuzco are more Inca ruins, many of which were uncovered by the devastating earthquake of 1950. Under the convent of Santa Domingo, for example, are stone passageways that led to storage chambers where gold and silver were kept.
Here, too, are remains of the Court of Gold, one of the most sacred places in the empire. Walls of this temple were plated with gold. Goldsmiths carved llamas and a field of corn that had silver stems. Inca priests lived here and worshipped the sun with daily offerings. Today, the gold is gone, and only a hint of the glory remains.
The next layer of Cuzco history reflects the Spanish heritage of the conquistadors and the colonial settlers that followed.
Showpieces from these days include the Cathedral at the Plaza de Armas built in the 16th century. Of particular interest is the collection of 17th-century art that depicts the new religion with distinct Andean flavor. A painting of the Last Supper, for example, shows Jesus and his disciples dining on the local delicacy, guinea pig. And there are the angels and cherubs shown clinging to curtains and hanging from upper beams. The local artists had a hard time with the concept that angels could fly.
Nearby is another Spanish jewel - the Compania, built by 17th-century Jesuits to compete with the Cathedral. Patrons of the Cathedral protested such impertinence. But by the time they got Pope Paul III to decree that the Jesuit structure should not be so glorious and grand, it was finished - complete with ornate brick facade and twin bell towers.
The top layer of Cuzco's cultural geology is the present city - a curious mixture of dignity and squalor.
As capital of the Cuzco Department (a unit of 13 districts), it is not without importance in modern Peruvian society. As the gateway to the more famous ruins of Machu Picchu, it reaps its share of economic benefits from the tourist trade (although the current political situation has had some impact on that in recent years).
White stucco houses with red tile roofs line winding cobblestone streets. Women wearing bright hand-woven shawls carry bundles on their backs. As often as not, a baby is also tucked in the bundle. The women all wear hats, both as a sign of status and of identity. Children play in the dusty streets. An occasional llama or alpaca can be seen.
In many ways it is a typical Andean city, drawing its character from heredity as well as environment. There is pride in the past, but most of the energy is devoted to the practicalities of the present. And, as much as anything, as you see the blending of the layers, as you see the evidence of cultural cycles, you get the idea that Cuzco is above all a survivor.
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(ADDITIONAL INFORMATION)
THE INCAS
The Inca civilization flourished between 1200, when it began to expand, and 1532, when it was conquered by the Spanish. It was at its height in the mid-1400s.
- At its height the Incas controlled a region of approximately 2,500 miles, covering parts of what are now Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina.
- The Inca language was called Quechua. There was no written form, so there were no documents before the time of the Spanish Conquest. However, scientists and historians have reconstructed a picture of Inca life from well-preserved archaeological remains, such as Machu Picchu, in Peru.
- Inca society had definite social ranks, ruled by members of a royal dynasty. The people were intensely religious. Religious ceremonies were a frequent part of life, and few decisions were made without consulting their gods, particularly Viracocha.
- Main crops included corn, cotton, potatoes, and edible root called oca and a grain known as quinoa.
- A well-constructed network of roads connected all parts of the Inca empire. Suspension bridges spanned rivers and canyons. The Incas were also known for their stonework. Building blocks often fit together so well there was no need for mortar.
- The Incas were also known for their beautiful arts and crafts - pottery, fine woven fabrics, and particularly their work with gold and silver.
- Spanish Conquistador Francisco Pizarro captured Inca ruler Atahualpa in 1532. Despite the ransom paid - one room filled with gold and another filled twice with silver - Atahualpa was killed, and the Spanish took over the empire. Though Inca heritage can still be seen in parts of the Peruvian highlands, that was essentially the end of ther Inca civilization.
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State Department advisory: stay on well-traveled roads
Visitors to the temples and other archeological sites at Cuzco, Peru, are warned in a State Department advisory not to wander far from well-traveled roads because of the possibility of violent crime.
Tourists, the advisory said, have been robbed in Cuzco and on trains between there and the pre-Incan city of Machu Picchu.
In the last three years there have been several instances of sabotage against trains on the Cuzco-Machu Picchu line, including two that "resulted in the injury and death of United States citizens," the advisory said.
Thousands of tourists travel safely each year, the message added, but "no security is provided along the route." It advised hikers to avoid the Inca Trail and said that those who did use it should travel in large groups with guides. Robberies, it said, were frequent and some victims have been seriously injured.
The State Department said that aside from anti-government activity by two terrorist groups, a difficult economic situation has lead to increased crime in tourist areas. In general, road travel is not recommended.
The advisory listed several areas that should be avoided and pointed out that while other areas were considered relatively safe, conditions could change at any time.
For this reason, American visitors should seek the latest travel information on arrival in Peru and register with the consular section of the U.S. Embassy in Lima.