A string of sure-footed horses wind their way down the Bryce Canyon horse trail, past Seal Castle, Queen's Garden and thousands of other equally striking but unnamed red rock formations.
About two miles and 1,000 vertical feet later, the horse party winds through the pine trees lining the bottom of the pink sandstone canyon before heading back up.The party could have included Ebeneezer and Mary Bryce looking for their cattle during the five years they lived on the edge of the park starting around 1875. Or, it could have been one of thousands of tourists who have viewed the magnificent sandstone cliffs from horseback since Bryce Canyon became Bryce National Park in 1928.
Or it could have been just the other day.
This time Eldon Brinkerhoff, who prefers "Binky," leads a small party of four down the horse trail on a quiet spring morning. The travelers, a 7-year-old girl, her mother and a couple from Morgan County, put their faith in Binky and some horses with names like Rattler and Tiny, who Binky promises will walk close to the edge, but won't ever walk off.
While there are at least a dozen hiking trails that lead down and up Bryce Canyon, there's only one way to see it by horse. The Bryce-Zion-Grand Trail-Rides concession is owned by the Paul O. Mangum family of Tropic.
Three-to-five times each day from about April through October, Mangum's wranglers take tours down the canyon. One trip lasts two hours; one longer version lasts half a day.
"The trails are about the same as they were 100 years ago," said Mangum's wife, Keela.
The Mangum family bought a park concession 17 years ago that included Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park. Later they picked up the Grand Canyon mule trail ride as well. Riders often purchase their tickets - $15 for the two-hour trip and $25 for the longer ride - from Mangum's 13-year-old daughter Laycee. Tom Mangum, a senior in high school, will be among those helping you pick out a horse. The other daughter is at Southern Utah State College studying accounting. Her mother hopes she'll return to Bryce to apply her skills to the family business.
While the majestic views of the Aquarius Plateau, and the rock formations called the Mormon Temple and the Sinking Sheep, will be memorable, wrangler Brinkerhoff may be what you remember best.
Keela Mangum said Binky has been working with the horses and taking tours down Bryce Canyon since he was a student in Tropic in the early 50's. If a rider nervously asks Binky about the trip, he'll say it's his first day. He won't joke about much else, however, particularly if that joke would do anything to make the trip less safe.
Although the trail edges along drop-offs that are hundreds of feet down at points, the Mangums claim an impeccable safety record.
Each guide can lead up to 20 riders, watching constantly to make sure no one is jeopardizing safety. They won't even allow a rider to take off a coat without asking the guide first.
"We've hardly had anything happen at Bryce Canyon. The credit goes not to the horses but the guides," Keela Magnum said. "That's what makes a good safe trip. We don't put up with any nonsense. Pretty soon the word gets out."
Tour groups are small in the early spring and late fall, but when the tourist season hits its stride after Memorial Day, the Mangums will be running five to six groups of 20 to 25 riders each every day.
During the peak season, the tours start as early as 8 a.m. The last starts at 2 p.m. Information and tickets are available at the Bryce Lodge and the Visitors' Center, just inside the park entrance.
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(Additional information)
Bryce Canyon
Distance from Salt Lake: About 260 miles, 4 12 to 5 hours by car.
Accommodations: Two campgrounds inside the park, one open year-round. Motels within seven miles of the park, including Ruby's Inn, which is located just outside the park.
Horse ride
When: Daily. Spring and fall hours are 10 a.m., 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. During peak season, tours start as early as 8 a.m.
Cost: $15 per person for two-hour trip. $25 a person for half-day tour.
Restrictions: Must be al least 5 years old. Weight limit 220 pounds.
Information: check at visitor's center or Bryce Lodge.