The image of the samurai warrior is familiar to most Americans. This is in part due to the televised version of James Clavell's "Shogun," as well as the wackier portrayal by John Belushi, whose samurai occasionally ravaged a cleaners on "Saturday Night Live" a few years back.
Considering this East meets West cross cultural exposure, it shouldn't have surprised us at our recent dinner at The 47 Samurai in Trolley Square that our chef was a Caucasian teenager who looked as if he belonged behind a hot electric guitar more than a sizzling teppan yaki grill.But his skill, ease and conversation as he juggled the numerous utensils of his trade - knives, plates, wooden shakers, plates and bowls of butter - reflected good training and confidence. These are just the kind of traits I like when I'm watching someone prepare an expensive steak and lobster dinner ($18.50). He exhibited the same agility while preparing the child's portion of the chicken dinner ($7.95), much to our son's delight and our satisfaction.
Diners who expect kimono-clad waitresses, a sushi bar and some of the traditionally prepared Japanese specialties like teriyaki and tempura will not be disappointed at the 47 Samurai, regardless of the appearance of the young warrior at the grill. From the decor to the attentive service, 47 Samurai has most of the elements in place that make up a very good Japanese restaurant. Only the private tatami rooms where diners sit on the floor are missing. Rather, diners are seated family style around one of a dozen teppan yaki tables, each with seven chairs. It is a vantage point that is both engaging and entertaining.
Entrees from the grill include pork, chicken, New York steak, filet mignon, shrimp, scallops and several combination dinners, priced from $9.95 to $18.50. The entree includes a traditional broth, salad with a creamy house dressing, steamed rice, tea, grilled shrimp, as well as mushrooms, onions, zucchini and bean sprouts cooked with the entree. The nicely seasoned portions are generous and, as one would expect, served hot. Mustard-ginger and sweet dipping sauces are also served.
A full menu with other entrees is offered. Items like beef sukiyaki ($10.50), steak teriyaki ($11.25), shrimp and seafood tempura ($12.50 and $12.95), makunouchi combination plate of tempura and teriyaki and kabobs of shrimp, chicken, beef, scallops, vegetables and meatballs grilled on a yakitori grill with a special sweet-style soy sauce round out the offerings.
We sampled the chicken tatsuta age ($10.50), a lightly battered breast of chicken with tempura vegetables, served with teriyaki sauce. It was very good, though not quite as entertaining as the teppan yaki specials we tried. We especially enjoyed the gyozas ($3.50), pot sticker appetizers as well as smaller version of the yakitori entree ($3.95) and a sushi combination plate ($8.25). Like the other preparations and ingredients, the zensai (appetizers) were fresh and flavorful.
The 47 Samurai served traditional Japanese cuisine in an upbeat, lively setting. It is a restaurant that also makes the experience entertaining.
Rating: ****
The 47 Samurai, 299 Trolley Square, 363-7294. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner from 5:30 p.m. until 9:30 p.m. seven days a week. Accepts major credit cards and checks with a guarantee card. Reservations recommended.