I have always been somewhat leery of landlocked seafood places that clutter their interior with the flotsam and jetsam of some inland salvage yard. No matter how many fishnets or weathered buoys hang above them, diners are usually made aware of how far they are from the sea by the freshness of the fare. For some of us who have dined at authentic wharf-side eateries, the only thing that really matters is the freshness of the seafood and a bracing salty breeze.
Because of the increasing demand for seafood today and modern transportation, fresh seafood is available in most major inland cities, Salt Lake City among them. Many seafood restaurants no longer rely on atmosphere to distract customers from the inadequacy of their food, but attract business with novel preparations and specialties.What made our recent visit to Seaman James Bartley in Midvale interesting, even engaging, was its old-fashioned approach to seafood. The interior is cluttered with all kinds of oceangoing memorabilia, including numerous paintings of sailing ships, a two-story fountain that resembles the cargo hold of the Leaky Lena, packing crates, rooms named after parts of a ship and enormous aquariums filled with all kinds of undersea life.
The restaurant space sprawls into several different rooms, none of which was cramped even during our Saturday night visit. Our party of eight had a comfortable spot adjacent to one of the aquariums that was private, but near enough to the kitchen to guarantee prompt service and hot entrees.
The menu is, at first glance, ordinary. There are no fancy preparations or continental sauces. Not a caper or herb is even mentioned. Except for several deep-fried items, halibut au gratin and teriyaki, the seafood entrees are served au naturel. No mention is made of California cuisine, characterized with avocado and tomato, Cajun cuisine where just about anything is "blackened," or the cooking of the Southwest, where spicy peppers and cilantro appear with predictable regularity.
We were pleasantly surprised by the straightforward approach and the results. A fresh salmon special was especially pleasing. The thick slice of salmon fillet ($11.90) was broiled to moist perfection. The pan-fried Utah Rainbow trout ($9.90) was also very good. Both the creamed clam chowder, one of the choices for appetizer, and the Louisiana shrimp cocktail ($5.50) - complete with 14 chilled tender shrimps - were nicely done.
The English-style fish and chips ($8.90) was disappointing. Two skimpy cod fillets were dwarfed by a pile of oily "chips." Another special of the night, mahi mahi, was ordinary. Our generous servings of dinner salad were lukewarm, lacking any crispness. The tasty dressings, Litehouse brand, we were told, compensated for the limpness.
Other menu choices include king crab legs, Australian lobster tails, scallops, several shrimp dishes, orange roughy, Eastern cod fillets, halibut fillet, Bay shrimp salad, three chicken dishes, New York steak and various combinations. Nightly specials are offered, including linguini with shrimp and scallops and stuffed shrimp. Prices range from a high of $30 for a pair of lobster tails to around $8 for dinner specials. The average prices are between $8 and $10, very reasonable considering this includes homebaked sourdough bread, baked potato or au gratin, and a choice of two appetizers along with the entree.
Seaman James Bartley has a no-nonsense, straightforward approach to seafood with a moderate price. The only excess is the bizarre tale described on the menu about Bartley, after whom the restaurant is named. Thought lost while chasing a sperm whale, the young seaman was rescued by his fellow whalers having survived a day and a night sloshing around in the whale's stomach. I'm just glad to report that our meals had a happier and less ironic ending.
Rating: ***
Seaman James Bartley, Family Center (on the south side), 1118 E. Fort Union Blvd., Midvale. 566-3983. Open for lunch, Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. until 4 p.m. Dinner served from 4 to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; till 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Major credit cards and check with guarantee card accepted. Fresh fish market on premises.