The Liaison Restaurant closed its doors near the end of December this past year, marking the end of an era. Diners who longed for continental cuisine without the pretense could feel right at home (or at least closer than downtown) at this cozy neighborhood restaurant that brought haute cuisine right next door to the dry cleaners and the hair salon.
Liaison's former executive chef Bub Horne is currently working as a pastry chef at Deer Valley after a short stint at the Santa Fe. While in pursuit of other imaginative food projects (Horne will say only that he is on to "something big . . . I have at least a half dozen copyrights on a product for the future.") his past accomplishments should not go unnoticed.Horne's creative flair with food, (the name Liaison signified a combination of styles that included classical, regional, as well as popular seafood and healthful trends) always stretched and usually pleased palates. His own encyclopedic knowledge and garrulousness often further spiced up a meal at the Liaison.
Liaison's competition in the Foothill and Sugarhouse areas was formidable - more recently the Upper Crust, Restaurant Newport and Bird's, to say nothing of stalwarts like Five Alls and Finn's.
In a way it is not surprising that Liaison has been replaced by a Japanese restaurant, considering the larger realms of competition that the United States is facing on many fronts, the least of which is culinary. As the strength of the Pacific Rim continues to grow in the West, Japanese culture in all its beauty and complexity will also challenge and stretch many of our perceptions, from food to corporate culture.
Unfortunately, during our recent visit, the Hashi Japanese Restaurant did little to add to our growing admiration and respect for Oriental cuisine. A sister to the more established Yamamoto on Social Hall Avenue, the Hashi paled in comparison.
Not only did we find some of the dishes disappointing, but we were also put off by some obvious problems with the decor. Liaison's interior would be a more than suitable Japanese restaurant, intimate and folksy, seating no more than 35 or 40. Upon approaching the small entry way, we reflected on the modest neighborhood Japanese restaurants we have visited in San Francisco. But upon entering, our recollections faded. The lovely and delicate Chinese paintings adorning the well-lit interior diminished the welcome feeling, since each had a prominent price tag attached. The carpet was noticeably in need of both repair and cleaning.
Two of the appetizers were adequate. The dozen California roll sushi ($6), rice cakes filled with seaweed, avocado and crab, were freshly prepared and flavorful. Tori kara age ($5), deep fried seasoned pieces of deboned chicken were tender, though a bit on the salty side.
Other appetizers include traditional favorites such as deep fried tofu ($3), gyza or Japanese style pot stickers ($3.50), sashimi ($6.50), marinated crab or shrimp with cucumber, several varieties of sushi, as well as interesting selections like ikasyoyu yaki, broiled squid with soy sauce.
Dinner prices range from $5 and $6 for bowls of udon (noodles) and donburri (rice) with broth to $12.50 for combination dinners which include tempura, sashimi, teriyaki, and sukiyaki variations. Prices include a miso tofu broth, green dinner salad, steamed rice, green tea and vegetable tempura.
We sampled four of the dinners, including a generous chicken sukiyaki children's dinner for $5. While the size was ample, the pieces of chicken in the broth lacked any flavor. The tempura which came with each of the dinners was not as crisp as it should have been and consisted mostly of carrot strips and a scant smattering of green peppers, green beans and onion rings. Other vegetables such as eggplant or sweet potatoes were not present.
The iceberg lettuce in the dinner salad was sodden, though the creamy dressing had a nice sweet and sour taste. The teriyaki sauce, on both the chicken and salmon was appropriately sweet; however its consistency was oddly syrupy, even thinly stringy. The yose nabe ($8.50), a large bowl of seafood-accented broth, was filled with pieces of fish, sliced green onions, napa cabbage, mushrooms and transparent yam noodles.
Other entrees include tonkatsu ($8), or pork cutlet, sakana ($8), ebi fry ($9), and several kinds of yaki zakana, broiled fish with salt, including salmon. A filling serving of nomono, potato stew with carrots and pieces of chicken, accompanies most of the dinner selections.
Hashi means chopsticks in Japanese. With a growing need to understand the Far East, more Caucasians are learning how to use these frustrating and decidedly Oriental utensils. With some improvements, the Hashi could be a restaurant where one would want to practice one's chopstick dexterity.
Rating: **
Hashi Japanese Restaurant, 2100 E. 1352 South 583-5701. Open for lunch Monday through Saturday, from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m. Dinner served from 5:30 p.m. until 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday and until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday. Check with guarantee card and major credit cards accepted.