Every city has a skyview restaurant, and for a while Salt Lake City was fortunate to have two with culinary repute - the Roof at at the Hotel Utah and Nino's, formerly the private University Club. In both cases, the view was nothing short of soul stretching - from the mountains to the East to the richly hued sunsets over the Great Salt Lake in the West.
Today only Nino's remains, more elevated than the Roof, with an extended view of the southernmost reaches of the valley along with framing the familiar and historical landmarks of Utah's heritage. It is a splendid place to show newcomers the progress along the Wasatch Front. Nino's vistas also offer a lofty perch for lovebirds who find the sparkling cityscape of nearby peaks a stimulant for romance.During our recent weekend dinner, however, we discovered that Nino's does not have a menu to match our mountains.
While the bill of fare, accented with a Mediterranean flair, is extensive and expensive (a price that covers the location no doubt), the expected quality and consistency were clearly lacking in some of our choices.
The mixed seafood grill ($17.95), a nightly special with snapper, shark and trout, came with only two of the selections. It was also without the selected sauce, a raspberry lime butter. Both oversights were quickly remedied by our professional and attentive waiter. Nonetheless, each of the fish items were overcooked, indistinguishable in taste and texture, save for the charcoal aftertaste.
Another disappointing entree was the tortellini and proscuitto ($13.95), reportedly meat-filled pastas in a creamy cheese sauce. The serving was certainly ample, but the promised meat filling was dense and tasteless; the cheese sauce routine. The sauteed scampi ($17.95), presented in a white wine, garlic and mushroom sauce was simply flat in flavor.
The recommended rack of Utah lamb ($24.95) was considerably more successful. Served medium rare as requested, the meat was meltingly tender, though it could have been trimmed a bit more. It was covered with a light coating of breadcrumbs, which did not have the flavor of the promised mustard seasoning as mentioned on the menu. Nor did the mint hollandaise sauce ever appear. Several white potatoes sauteed with onions did add a nice touch, nonetheless.
Each of the dinners is served with a spongy dinner roll, crispy steamed vegetables and green salad. The house dressing, a rich basil vinaigrette, drenched our salads; it was pungent and pleasing. Several a la carte appetizers were adequate, including escargot ($6.95) baked in garlic butter under a pastry puff and the chef's pate ($5.75) and a colorfully presented and flavorful salmon with green olives and crunchy toast rounds.
An almost robust and not too sweet Ghiradelli chocolate mousse ($3.50) and fresh strawberries in a Zanbaione custard sauce ($4.50) were very good; though ladling the berries over ice cream seemed redundant considering the sweetness of the custard.
Other choices on the extensive menu include carpaccio ($5.75), oysters Rockefeller ($8.50), several soups including onion soup ($2-$3), salads including spinach, classic Caesar and Charlemagne with brie dressing ($6-$9.75), pasta dishes such as spaghetti Carbonara ($12.45), canneloni Nino ($14.25), fettucini Frederick ($15.50), which comes with ham, chicken and artichoke hearts, and several fresh seafood as well as veal, chicken and red meat selections.
While the latter selections include chicken Marsala, veal piccata, filet of mignon and steak Diane, only the veal Champagne ($18.50) sounded a bit out of the ordinary, sauteed with mushrooms, cream and champagne. A mixed grill of filet, lamb and chicken ($21.95) served with bernaise, mint hollandaise and rosemary, also sounded appetizing.
Nino's vantage point is a unique and often breathtaking one; unfortunately its cuisine is neither.
Rating: **
Nino's Restaurant, 136 E. South Temple, University Club Building, 24th Floor. 359-0506. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, from 11:30 a.m. until 2:30 p.m. Dinner served from 5 p.m. until 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Major credit cards and check with guarantee card accepted. Reservations recommended for weekends. Parking in the University Club building.